Replacing a clutch

[loudoun]

I am getting ready to replace the clutch in my Series 1 car.   I have all the items assembled, but have never attempted this before. Any advice? Thanks!

[Jaymanbikes]

Make sure and get the car up high enough so that you can get the transmission out.  I have an small fairly low profile jack that I made a plate for, then rolled it out.  Alternatively you could pick up one of the little trans jacks from Harbor Freight.  

You will need to support the engine so make sure you have something below or above to provide support. 

Other than that it's pretty straight forward.  If you plan on pulling the flywheel I would recommend going back with something lighter.  I installed a standard steel unit that had 4-5 pounds shaved from it.  It makes the car seem so much more lively and does not really compromise low speed modulation.  

[7tooZ]

Good time to check the driveline U joints, on a Series 1 trans you can remove the shift lever without removing the console, check the shift lever bushings once trans is out, replace or have flywheel, if you can replace the pilot bearing (Orielly may loan you puller) if you replace it test the new one on the trans before installing, loosen fill plug on trans before removing from car, replace trans fluid (I like Redline), replace trans rear seal and look for other leaks, throw out bearing, pressure plate, trans rear mount, use a clutch disk locating pin. Check engine rear seal for leaks.
Make sure trans is in gear when putting it back in.
Sorry if these were obvious.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[siteunseen]

This is a couple of dollars at a hardware store and saves some trouble, rubber cap for plumbing.  Sorry I can't remember the exact size but I'm 99% sure it was a 2 inch?  The one one the nose is the 2", the smaller one over the shifting mechanism was just for pressure washing.  Maybe 1 1/2"?

I use a motorcycle jack but like jaymanbikes says above you have to really get it up high to clear everything coming out.  I would buy the rubber seal that goes into the speedo connection too.  After they get worn in and you remove the old one, when you go back it'll leak a little.  Nissan still has the new ones for just a few bucks.  I'll find the info and add it to this post in an edit.

here's the part numbers for the speedo cable.  I drove mine down with a 10mm deep socket.  Another thing, the pilot bushing needs to be lubed up for some reason.  I read it in the Tom Monroe How to Rebuild the Nissan L motor book, you put it between your thumb and your pointing finger, fill it with oil and pinch down until you see little drops "sweat" out the outer side.

Good luck, it's easier than than you're probably thinking. 

 

Edited December 30, 2017 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

Oh yeah, here's another little thing that makes a huge difference while you're there.  Replacing those plastic bushings on the shifter with bronze door hinge bushings.

Thanks @240260280

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html

Oh yeah again, make sure you get the slave rod and pedal all adjusted right.  Before they started using the automatic adjusting slave cylinder the older ones were able to be longer or shorter by loosening the nut and running out or in the rod.  When i first bought my 240 it wouldn't get up the driveway from slipping so bad.  I got on here and read how to adjust them and ran that old clutch for a year until I rebuilt the motor.

Sorry but I'm just getting up and some coffee in me, starting to remember things after a few cups. 

Removing the old console is tricky too if you haven't done that yet, you have to unplug the choke light switch to the left of the radio.  Then the choke holder from the console.  Mine was cracked already so I bought the tunnel mount from Art Singer, one of the best cheap upgrades of all time in my opinion.  Well I just found out it's for the later 240s. 

https://zcardepot.com/choke-lever-mounting-plate-reinforcement-240z.html

Edited December 30, 2017 by siteunseen

[loudoun]

Thanks all for the suggestions.  It does not look like this will be as straight forward as I thought.  It is a 70 build car with the original 4 speed.  For the job, I have a storage lift (great deal on craigslist), so height is no problem. I have a resurfaced stock flywheel ready and an Exeedy clutch and pressure plate to go in.  I also thought, if it was possible, that I would replace the engine rear main seal at the same time.  I have redline oil to go back in.  However, from what you guys are saying, I should replace a whole bunch of other components while I have the trans out.  What would you recommend I replace?  I do not want to pull it and then not have done some easy fixes while I was at it.

[Jaymanbikes]

11 minutes ago, loudoun said:

Thanks all for the suggestions.  It does not look like this will be as straight forward as I thought.  It is a 70 build car with the original 4 speed.  For the job, I have a storage lift (great deal on craigslist), so height is no problem. I have a resurfaced stock flywheel ready and an Exeedy clutch and pressure plate to go in.  I also thought, if it was possible, that I would replace the engine rear main seal at the same time.  I have redline oil to go back in.  However, from what you guys are saying, I should replace a whole bunch of other components while I have the trans out.  What would you recommend I replace?  I do not want to pull it and then not have done some easy fixes while I was at it.

In my opinion you have it covered!  Having a lift makes this a breeze, suggest having a buddy around for an extra set of hands/back when removing and plugging her back in.

[siteunseen]

That speedo connection can wait until later and see if it drips.  The bronze bushing gets rid of a sloppy shifter but zcardepot.com sales the oe plastic ones.  Some people like the plastic. 

I was rattling off things I experienced, hopefully your's will be different, newer maybe?  My '72 hadn't been driven much and had all the original parts from 1972.

Wishing you the best with your swap. 8^)

Cliff

[Zed Head]

The only parts that need to have the transmission out to be replaced are the throwout bearing, the rear main seal of the engine, and the front cover seal of the transmission.  And the clutch parts, of course.  The clutch fork too, sometimes they're worn.  The rest can be replaced piece-meal as necessary, or at better times, with the transmission installed.  

You might start your project by loosening nuts and bolts.  Propeller shaft flange bolts at the diff, exhaust pipe bolts and nuts, exhaust system hanger bolts and nuts, fill and drain plugs on the transmission.  It's that one nut or bolt that won't loosen or breaks that will stop a well-made plan.

List all of the parts that you have and we'll tell you which ones to be careful with.  The throwout bearing sleeve is the most common place that people go wrong.  Some kits have it, some don't.  You didn't mention it specifically.

[siteunseen]

The first one I did on a 280, I drove the new throw out bearing down with a block of wood and the old bearing. It made a spinning noise when in neutral.  The next one I had pressed on at a machine shop, no noise when adjusted to spec.  FYI

My guy didn't even charge me so I'd say $10 at the most.

The Exedy clutches I buy are 6009s I think?  They don't come with new collars.  I think that's what Zed Head is referring to above?

[Zed Head]

Yes, Nissan calls it a sleeve.  We call it a collar.  It must match the pressure plate finger height, nothing else.  Even the parts makers get things wrong in their specs.  Measurements are necessary unless you're a gambler.

[loudoun]

Thanks everyone for their help so far.  I have an Exedy 6029 Clutch kit (pictured) and the rear Main seal (also pictured).  I also attached a photo of the car in question.