Replacing a clutch

[siteunseen]

I've got those in both my Zs. Good clutch with a medium pedal.

One's with a 10lb. aluminum flywheel, works great. 

[PrincePaul]

Regarding a replacement clutch, which kinda power levels can a stock clutch take?

The 6009 is the stock replacement from exedy, right? The 6029 is an upgrade?

Or better getting this one:

EXEDY 06805A

Edited April 4, 2018 by PrincePaul

[Dave WM]

think the 6029 has a different bolt pattern on the pressure plate for the flywheel that the 6009.

[PrincePaul]

Alright. I`m only asking, because I need a clutch for an auto to manual swap. So I´m planning on using the lightend flywheel from zcardepot. Poweroutput of the engine should be around 180 HP (cam, tripple weber, z story full system). Later down the road when I rebuild the engine and increase compression, porting the head etc. maybe up to 250 or so. 

Which I`m already preparing it for or at least I`m trying to. So better get a clutch which takes the abuse from the upgrades later down the road than buying twice.

Even tho rockauto won`t ship it to germany because its to heavy?! But the stock clutch works.... probably just a bug in their webshop.

 

[Dave WM]

the 6029 is an upgrade in over the 6009. since you are starting with a diff flywheel than stock, I would suggest getting everything from zcardepot, that way they can tell you about fitment of pressure plate, and throw out bearing. Make sure it all bolts up since shipping cost will be high, you want it to work the 1st time.

[esmit208]

On 12/30/2017 at 9:59 AM, siteunseen said:

Oh yeah, here's another little thing that makes a huge difference while you're there.  Replacing those plastic bushings on the shifter with bronze door hinge bushings.

Thanks @240260280

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html

Oh yeah again, make sure you get the slave rod and pedal all adjusted right.  Before they started using the automatic adjusting slave cylinder the older ones were able to be longer or shorter by loosening the nut and running out or in the rod.  When i first bought my 240 it wouldn't get up the driveway from slipping so bad.  I got on here and read how to adjust them and ran that old clutch for a year until I rebuilt the motor.

Sorry but I'm just getting up and some coffee in me, starting to remember things after a few cups. 

Removing the old console is tricky too if you haven't done that yet, you have to unplug the choke light switch to the left of the radio.  Then the choke holder from the console.  Mine was cracked already so I bought the tunnel mount from Art Singer, one of the best cheap upgrades of all time in my opinion.  Well I just found out it's for the later 240s. 

https://zcardepot.com/choke-lever-mounting-plate-reinforcement-240z.html

THANX SITE

I wasn't aware this was a viable conversion. Having replaced these bushings several times I always wondered if there could have been a better solution initially.

[Zed Head]

3 hours ago, PrincePaul said:

Alright. I`m only asking, because I need a clutch for an auto to manual swap. So I´m planning on using the lightend flywheel from zcardepot. Poweroutput of the engine should be around 180 HP (cam, tripple weber, z story full system). Later down the road when I rebuild the engine and increase compression, porting the head etc. maybe up to 250 or so. 

Is it a lightened 225 mm flywheel, or 240?  The 240 is the turbo flywheel, and the turbos were rated at 180 HP, I believe.  You'll want the 240, with the right pressure plate and clutch disc.  Not so sure that factory spec replacements are where you want to end up, with 250 HP, although starting there might be okay.

Don't forget that it's torque and traction that overload clutches, and other drivetrain parts.  And how you use it.

[PrincePaul]

Thats the one I was thinking of:

https://zcardepot.com/flywheel-lightweight-competition-clutch-240z-260z-280z.html

 

Yeah these are just rough figures, I don`t know where I`m ending with. First I want to restore the car and than later another winter I wanna pull out the engine again and do a proper internal rebuild. Engine wise in the first stage I will only change external pieces of it + cam.

 

The upgrade clutches from them are always in combination with the 240z sleeve, which is not available - at least on their page.

[Zed Head]

Seems spendy.  240 mm flywheels are still available.

[PrincePaul]

Yeah but than its the heavier version? IDK.

Send a couple of Fidanza sellers an email, see what they are offering.

 

As most of the aftermarket flywheels are also taking the 2+2 clutch, could just go with that kit:

http://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-racing-clutch/exedy-racing-stage-1-organic-clutch-kit/06801a/i-34386.aspx

 

instead of this one:

http://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-racing-clutch/exedy-racing-stage-1-organic-clutch-kit/06805a/i-34392.aspx

 

Even stronger and should fit with stock sleeve etc.

Or does that effect the pedal feel much?

 

240mm just  heavier again... mhh

Edited April 5, 2018 by PrincePaul

[240260280]

You may consider replacing rear main seal on engine in addition to the rear seal on your transmission.

Use a good spline grease on the transmission front shaft spline, the throw out bearing sliding surface, the fork assembly pressure points, pilot bushing surface at end of crank, propeller shaft spline,and in the throw-out bearing,

Use blue loctite on the flywheel to crank bolts and pressure plate bolts (torque these properly).

 

[Dave WM]

I was at an autozone looking for a replacement flywheel (in case my 225) back when I was working on mine. all they had was the 240mm sized flywheel (based on bolt holes for the pressure plate). Funny thing is the BOX and all the computer stuff said it was for the 225 clutch, but I had the 225 pressure plate right in front of me and it clearly was not. I ended getting the clutch kit and just scuffing up my old 225 flywheel (it was not bad after all).