Hey guys, I have been trying to find a decent stock 240z in my area, and think I have stumbled upon one. However, I think the seller is asking a bit high. 

How much would you guys pay for this vehicle?

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1971-datsun-240z/6427971903.html

Appreciate all your help!

That's cheap as long as it's not loaded in rust!

15 minutes ago, Toolbox said:

Hey guys, I have been trying to find a decent stock 240z in my area, and think I have stumbled upon one. However, I think the seller is asking a bit high. 

How much would you guys pay for this vehicle?

https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1971-datsun-240z/6427971903.html

Appreciate all your help!

I like this car but needs a good inspection for rust: floors, behind seats, under battery, fender edges, etc. Cracking paint may mean body filler. I would pay 7200 if minimal rust knowing I would spend $15-$20K on body and paint and $2 - $5K on interior.

Can you guys give me a quick 101 on how to check for rust? Is it just underneath where the seat would be? How would you check the floors etc?

I know a little rust is okay, but how much rust would be a no go?

Edited December 31, 20177 yr by Toolbox

First ask the seller. He might tell you. Remove the carpet floor mat and look in the area under the petals and around floor plugs. Slide seats as far forward as possible and check the floor lowest spot on ground of the tool storage box. Have a small Led light with you.

Look under the battery support put your there and feel for loose rough surfaces. Look for bubbling paint along fender, the dogleg in front of the fender and along the panel under the doors then the area on lower front fender by the doors.
Check engine bay along the frMe rail where the wire harness lays.
I would be shocked if you don’t find some.
Check the panel under the hatch corners just above the license plate.
Not knowing your ability to repair I would think about your plans long term. How much can you do yourself. Will you be happy driving it and repairing it the way it is. How funds can you devote to it. Add another 4-5k and you could buy a pretty nice 72-73 driver.
Shout out the the members there maybe one that can help you look at it.
If it is relatively rust free it won’t last long. Good luck.



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The seller's been trying to unload that car for a while now and no one's bitten yet, so yeah, the price it probably high. Here are some recent BaT results for cars that look comparable:

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-26/

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-28/

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-11/

~$5,000 is probably a reasonable offer, assuming there's nothing horrific that the photos aren't showing. Even assuming the best, you'll probably spend 2-3x that much to make it look good, if that's your objective. Depending on your ability and appetite for a project, I'd echo the advice to find something in better shape.

I actually have pretty big restoration goals for the 240, and don't mind spending more to make it the way I want. I am just looking for a 240 with a solid frame to build off of, as I am going to restomod  the vehicle anyway!

I think that is a great price... but based on the pics the seller shows.  If it looks as good as the pics, it would be a great value.  Everything looks better in photos.

But, you need to look inside the front wheel wells. There are some small 8" or so pieces of sheet metal welded to the frame just behind the motor mounts.  Those rust and are the first to go.  Then look at the frame rails. In the late '70s, I owned a 73 that had rust so bad on the front frame rail, there was nothing holding the front sway bar.  The rails can rot in the back too.  The carpets are not traditional in that they are fastened with loops and snaps.  So removal takes all of 2 minutes.  If you get this far, you are in good shape.  Then under the battery tray.   If those look good, then you are well on your way.

Open the rear hatch and look at the .... hatch sill plate? Not sure what to call it.  Where the latch is located. Then take the spare tire out and look at that.  Surface rust is fine.

Next there are some telltale signs of previous less than stellar body work.  There should be weld seams at the rear of the car running from the tale lights down to the bottom of the car.  One on each side.  There should also be seams at the rear of the rockers to the beginning of the rear quarter panels.

Checking for repair work at the rear quarters around the wheel wells is difficult for low skilled guy such as me.  But there are two pieces of sheet metal welded together there so it is supposed to be a little thick feeling. Look closely at that area and compare each from one another.  I once owned another car that was improperly repaired.  I couldn't figure out why one side of the car sat lower than the other.  Unfortunately, I figured out later it didn't.  One wheel well was welded lower than it should be.  I saw the same problem on another post on this forum.  Those areas must be difficult for the novice to repair.

If it passes all of these tests, bring cash. Good luck.

Now down to $5200, and with fewer pictures: https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/6454850426.html

Probably a basketcase, but someone here might be able to strike a deal on a big project.

The pictures say loaded with body filler don't they?

And the small number of pictures and no details say "call me so I can smooth-talk you".  Run away...

 

TOOLBOX. Before buying and if you are able to find shops in your area that focus on Nissan, preferrably 240Z. I say this becuase often they have cars on liens or just cars that were partiall used for parts. I found mine at Redondo Beach Z World on a mechanics lien. Was not running but it was complete, all knobs , switchs, etc. 2K and he got it running for me. Another specialist in the Los Angeles ZXPERTS located in Venice may have a car or two and ZCAR GARAGE in San Jose could be another option. Cars found in places like this will more than likely be projects also but maybe you can get some initial repairs as a part of the purchase price and get it up in the air for a thorough inspection underneath. Good luck.

I went to check out this vic, and it was just like y'all said. Body filler to the brim, and everything was not straight at all.  I started to look at 240z's that are in the process of getting restored. Is asking for 8k for something like this too much? The car looks pretty straight and has minimal rusting from what I saw when I visited. Think I can haggle down to 6k?

Non running car, was in the process of getting restored.

 

 

Edited January 15, 20187 yr by Toolbox