Bringing a 1977 Z back life

[Av8ferg]

Hey,  just bought a 1977 Z that im waking from a long +15 year comma.  Loloking for guidance as to what i should do and in what order. 

Compression check done.  All Cylinder are in the 180s except 1 which showed 145.  I changed all the plugs, oil and filters.  I also drained the old fuel and fuel filter.  Radiator was empty and thermostat had disentegrated cavities in the cooling systme had white powered residue.  Car will only turn over when i jump the starter leads with a screw driver and get nothing, no power when tunring the ignition key,  

So what do you all recommend I do next?  Will post pics of the car when i bought it.  Ive had it about 10 days.  

 

[siteunseen]

Check the fusible links on the passenger's fender well.  

Read this, he did all the stuff on a '77 too.  Saved me tons of money on mine.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Then do this,

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

here's the whole gold mine,

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

You have a good car to get help here, many helpful people on here with '77s.  Good luck, it's cold outside, we're stuck inside and everybody's dying to help someone. 

[Zed Head]

A long comma, like a long pause?  Very creative writing, I like it.

Browse the categories on the right on this page, and download your FSM and other guides.  Wiring diagrams, troubleshooting guides, they're all in there.

http://www.classiczcars.com/files/

How did the fuel that you drained look?  Is there rust in the tank?  Does the fuel pump work?  We love pictures here.

What, exactly, are you trying to get out of it?  You're trying to start it when it's probably full of crud that will get circulated through the various systems, engine, fuel system, cooling system, etc.  Not good for long-term but you'll probably have fun before other stuff starts to break, if you get it running.

Edited January 3, 2018 by Zed Head

[Av8ferg]

Your ride is sweet.  I’ll look at those links you sent.  I did replace one of the fusible links that was broken, forgot to mention that.  

I just don’t know what to do next.  I think I’ll buy a new stater, they’re  cheap and  I’ll eventually need one. I need to start canceling probable issues. I gues I need to get a wiring diagram and test the connections and relays.  They guy I bought it from had the interior TOTOALY stripped out except the dash so I don’t know whats connnected and what’s not.  He also threw away the cars seats so I’m hunting for some original replacements I can refurbish.  I’m seatless ?

[Dave WM]

rather than buying a new starter get out the multimeter and start checking for supply and signals

1st thing would be to look in the fuel tank, its most likely rusted. You may as well start with that. Pull it get it sorted out. A borescope  down the filler neck will quickly let you know how bad the rust is.

Next would be to check fuel lines likely plugged up, get that sorted out.

then fuel lines (unless you like engine fires), vacuum lines.

wire harness connections under the hood need to be cleaned as do grounds.

get some good battery cables and a good battery.

all this before anymore attempts at starting.

 

Edited January 3, 2018 by Dave WM

[siteunseen]

I've always gotten good deals from Advance Auto with a coupon code from https://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com 

Buy online, save 25 to 30% and pick up in store.  I think the last one I bought was $20.

Good looking car!  Thanks on my 240 too, '77 280 runs like a new one but has old faded paint.  

Edited January 3, 2018 by siteunseen

[Av8ferg]

Zed Head, 

The fuel was brown, didn’t see any particles.  No sure if the pump is working and haven’t researched how to test it.  I did install a pre-filter between tank and pump to keep particles from entering the pump if it had rust in it.  

The car came from CA and the paperwork I have showed it was repossessed from a guy living in Sacramento in 1998,  CA plate registration is 1998 so I’m confident it has seen a road under its own power since.  The body has no rust which is amazing.  No rust on rockers, battery area or rear hatch.  It’s really a rust free.  The only rust is one floor board drain plug that rusted out,  it appears someone under coated the car early in its life and that ma have saved it.  Odometer shows 107k.  I debated just putting a rebuild L28 and put all this behind me but thought I give this engine a chance.  

What am I trying to get out of it? I want to eventually restore this car and hang on to it, but right now I just want is to reliably start and drive. 

Its cold right now I’m my garage , sucks to work on in the temps.

[siteunseen]

They are super easy to rebuild.  I followed this book without any problems, easy to understand and good photos.

https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

[Zed Head]

It's a toasty 39 F here in the great northwest.

Dave is right, you need to get a meter and make sure power is where power should be.  The simple test for the fuel pump is to disconnect the starter solenoid wire and turn the key to Start.  But apparently you don't have power to the starter solenoid.

107,000 is low miles for these engines.  Assume that the engine is going to run fine once you get the other stuff sorted out.  Spend your time on the small stuff.  One short circuit causing melted wires will ruin things for you.  I still remember taking the advice of a friend about using a Juicy Fruit wrapper to "fix" a blown fuse.  Those wrappers can pass a lot of current.

[Zed Head]

That's a nice looking car though.  Make sure you don't set it on fire.

Get a milk crate or box or build a seat, then sit on that seat with a meter and the wiring diagram.  Maybe with a little space heater in the car.  Some beers.  Your phone or laptop so that you can show us what you find.  Take measurements and write down what you find or don't find.  Since wiring has been removed (edit - had dash here), there are many many things that could be disconnected.  The grounds are just as important as the power leads.

 

Realized that your dash is still in place, which is good.  But there are relays under the seat, and the Hazard switch in the console and stuff on the steering column that can be a problem.

Edited January 3, 2018 by Zed Head

[gwri8]

Welcome to the group!  You've received excellent advice so far from some very experienced people. This is a great source for trouble shooting S30 mechanical, electrical as well as history. 

Rust free puts you well ahead of the pack as far as getting it back on the street. You will be entering the "while I'm here" zone very soon and it will make you realize how everything connects and functions.  Be methodical and patient.  I found it to be a rewarding feeling when I finally got mine to a drivable condition.

[Av8ferg]

Thanks guys for guidance.  Okay a new starter is $35 at Advanced Auto.  I think the one I have is pretty shot.  When I did the compression check I turned to engine over jumping the pos and neg posts on the starter and about 1/2 the time the thing spun but didn’t engage so I think the solenoid is going. 

Okay, I was concerned about the fuel system too.  I impacted all the hoses and they look solid.  I am concerned about pushing bad fuel into the stystem but all the lines were completely empty with I installed the new fuel pump and when I installed to additional filter in the line exiting the tank.  I bought 2 gallons of premium gas and a can of sea foam.  Was thinking of disconnecting the hose to the main fuel filter and pumping the new gas from the tank in to a bucket and see what enters the clear filter I installed and push out an line debris into the bucket. Thioughts,?  

I think I’ll download those wiring diagrams and see what I find.  Wilco on cleaning up the electrical connections.  

Is it okay to start the engine with a dry cooling system? Won’t let it run long if is starts.  I don’t want to put new antifreeze only to dump it when I have to flush all the corrosion in the engine jackets.  Considering a new water pump and radiator too.