Bringing a 1977 Z back life

[S30Driver]

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

Hey Jim.  PM me a picture of the switch and I will ride out to my JY and see if I can get it off one of those if aviateferg doesn't get one.

Cliff

Thanks Cliff,  will take a picture tomorrow when its light.   Mine works but one of the two copper spade connectors that tells the compressor to shut off is broken.  The switch screws into the side of the air dryer.

[Av8ferg]

Gents, I’ve made progress.  Here’s where I am now.  I replaced the fusible links with brand now ones.  I cleaned all the leads to those as well.  I replaced the positive battery connection and have a new battery (Interstate group 34).   I got in the car and magically it began to crank easily when I turned the key.  I was very surprised.  
I cranked it 5 to 6 times for 6-8 seconds.  No luck, no start.  I wanted to see if fuel was getting to the engine so I checked the extra (clear plastic) fuel filter I placed between the tank and pump.  It was completely dry.  I don the know but it appears the pump is either not coming on or it’s broken, not sure right now which is the case.  I read that the AFM has an internal switch that activates the pump so I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake to the AFM to see if I could get some flammable vapor into the intake.  Cranked and nothing.  I pulled the AFM....those hoses were ripped and cracked badly.  I have the pre and post AFM hoses on order.  $55 for the AFM to intake hose..ouch.  While I’m waiting on those parts I want to test the pump. 
I have an extra set of injectors that I’ve cleaned out and tested by putting 3v on the leads (2 D cell batteries) and spayed carb cleaning through while adding voltage to leads.  (Found a video on how to do this and it worked great) They sprayed nicely.  I’m going to install these in the car and pull the old ones.  I’ve installed a fuel pressure gauge from the exit of the main fuel filter in the engine bay.  Right now I’m getting zero fuel into the system.  
I want to test the fuel pump but not sure what the best approach is for that.  I have an extra (old) pump that I got with a box of extra parts I got from a guy in town but, I don’t know if it works.  He pulled it when he installed carbs into his 78 280z.
Can I put 12 volts directly from the battery to test that old pump and see ifit works?  I don the want to fry it if that’s too much current.  While I’m waiting on the AFM hoses, I’ve decided to replace the water pump too.  $20 from auto zone. I’m assuming with all the white powder and the disintegrated (1/2 missing Thermostat) I found in the Thermostat housing the pump is probably trashed.  I have new radiator hoses and Thermostat so I will get the cooling system back on line. I’m also going to replace all the vacuum hoses today while I wait on those AFM hoses.  BTW I have 2 extra AFMs, is there a way to test these things?   

BTW, the spark plug wires were off plugs when I got the car  How do I know which plug goes to the corrrct spark plug?  I’m not 100% sure they’re correct right now.  

So what do you guys think is the next step?  

Edited January 10, 2018 by Av8ferg

[siteunseen]

I have a length of speaker wire, about 15 feet, with alligator clips on one end and some old battery charger clips on the other.  Straight wire the pump from the battery to the pumps positive and negative leads.  Positive is in front.  

Sounds like you're tank pick up is clogged.

[siteunseen]

Firing order, 153624, counter clockwise.  Spark plug go #1 closest to the radiator through #6 in order, next to the firewall at the windshield.

#1 at the front of the motor, number 6 at the rear.  1,2,3,4,5,6 

Edited January 10, 2018 by siteunseen

[gwri8]

Check  the EFI harness connections at the battery.  I recently had a similar problem when I cleaned up my fuel pump.   I reconnected the big neg cable and the engine would turn over but the fuel pump would not work. I hadn't noticed that the separate EFI ground had come loose when I pulled the big Neg cable.  Hooked it back up, didn't have to get a new fuel pump.

Edited January 10, 2018 by gwri8

[Av8ferg]

Sweet, I’m on it and proceeding as directed.  Will report back later.  Just got the water pump off....what a mess in there. Check out the before and after I clean it up pics.    I’m now pulling the radiator and taking it to a shop to have the cleaned and tested.  

 

Edited January 10, 2018 by Av8ferg

[Av8ferg]

Well, I used your plug firing order guide and mine we completely different, so I moved as you directed.  Here’s what I got now.does this look right?

Edited January 10, 2018 by Av8ferg

[siteunseen]

Looks good to me.  There's a raised mark on #1 of the cap. But that front clip is also a good marker.

Sometimes people move them around to adjust for the distributors drive spindle being off a tooth or two. But if you had someone not familiar with the Zs firing order they will use a straight six ford or chevy order.  My Dad

[Zed Head]

You can pull the cap, with the timing mark on ~10 degrees on the #1 firing stroke, and see if the rotor is pointing at the #1 wire.

While you're waiting for water pumps and stuff you might just run through your ignition system.  It's pretty simple.  Check for power at the coil with the key on, check the air gap of the reluctor/pickup coil with feeler gauges, check resistance of the pickup coil, make sure that the #1 pin of the ECU connector is connected the wire at the coil's negative terminal, and more.  All of the simple things that people end up finding out was the cause of their no-start problem.

When you do get it back together if you use starter fluid squirt it in to any port on the intake manifold.  Just to be sure it's getting where it needs to be.  Your intake system was probably sucking so much air through the holes in your AFM hoses that the fluid never got to the manifold.

There is a simple set of resistance readings that you can do on the AFM's to see if they're in spec.  I've had out of spec AFM's work fine though, so don't toss them if they're off a little bit. 

You can run 12 volts through your pump but don't do it for too long.  The electric motor inside is actually normally submerged in gasoline that keeps it cool.  And the roller bearings probably get lubrication from the gas also.  I'd only give it a few whirs then stop.

Edited January 10, 2018 by Zed Head

[sweatybetty]

7 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Sometimes people move them around to adjust for the distributors drive spindle being off a tooth or two.

i fought that for at least a couple of days. it will drive you batshot

[Av8ferg]

I was called in to work for an overnight trip but here’s what I got done before I left.  

- new water pump and thermostat installed.

-  with everything so easily accessible up front and because what I found in the pump I decided to pull the radiator.  I took it to a shop in town and had it tested.  I watched as he tossed it in a tank with air pressure on it and it leaked like a sieve.  That cost me $35.  So I ordered and new aluminum 2 core radiator from Champion, exact one they sell at MSA but mine was on sale for $159.  

- with the AFM pulled free from the intake but still connected electrically, I sprayed carb cleaner into then intake after opening then butterfly valve with the throttle.  I then turned the car over.  It made a big “pop” sound and then I saw a flame shoot out the intake.  I don’t think I’ll do that again. 

When I get back from my work trip here are the next tasks on my list.  

- install the extra set of injectors that I’ve tested and cleaned.  

- pull the fuel pump, clean that smalll screen on the intake side and then put 12v to it and see if it runs I’m also going to test the one I have in a parts bin I bought.  If both of the pumps are bad, I’ll pull one apart and see if something is repairable or rusted.  My last resort after is buy a new pump.  They are expensive.  

Question.....I can buy a OEM style which are in the $300 ball park range or get a different looking non-OEM from a box auto store for $99?   Here are the difference in the looks of those pumps.

finally I’m going to start testing the ECU connections as mentioned, the coil and the Distrutor. Good ide to check where the rotor is pointing of the #1 fire stroke. .  I’m not exactly sure what Zed Head was saying but it sounds like I need to check the gap in my distributor??? Can you clarify that task?  

Thank again guys.....you are all awesome and I’m very appreciative.  When I’m done and any of you any of the extra part I have let me know.  I’m happy to make parts donations,  

[Patcon]

If you got a back fire out the intake manifold, you need to check your ignition timing. It probably needs to be advanced some