Bringing a 1977 Z back life

[Zed Head]

Disconnect the line by the filter that heads back to the tank.  Run a line from it to a small tank.  Power your pump and see what the pressure does.  If pressure drops to ~37 psi then you have a blockage either at the tank or in the lines that return to the tank.  It could be something as simple as a kinked line.  It could also be a failed fuel hose.  They can swell and come apart internally.  Especially if somebody used a non fuel-rated hose.

Your pictures don't show the bottom of the FPR.  The fuel passes through the rail then the FPR before it heads back to the tank.  

Edited February 9, 2018 by Zed Head

[Dave WM]

disconnect the fuel return line, see if anything is coming out. Get a close up of how you have the FPR hooked up. use a free hose for the return line,  JIC the tank lines on the return are plugged up.

You have to get that part working before messing with the EFI, assuming the pressure gauge is right, even if the EFI was working perfect the mixture would be way too rich, prob not run.

 

oops ZH beat me to the punch on the return line.

Edited February 9, 2018 by Dave WM

[Zed Head]

Might have mentioned this before too, but if you get some starting fluid, for a few dollars, and start the engine with the fuel pump off (to be sure you're not flooding it with the high pressure), then you'll at least know that you have spark and timing is close.  Pull a plug, make sure they're not wet, leave the fuel pump unpowered, squirt some fluid in to the intake manifold, start it.  If you want to enjoy it for a few more seconds just squirt more before the engine dies.

You're starting to look at changing distributors but haven't confirmed that the one you have is bad.

[Av8ferg]

Well, I was just asking if electronic ignition is a good way to go. You are correct, I haven’t tested it yet but up to this point just about everything seems to be bad on this car. It sat for 18 yrs in a garage. To be honest I haven’t even researched how to test my distributor. I have tested the coil and it’s firing.
Last time I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and turned it over I got a small pop and fire started at the entrance of the intake manifold.


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[EuroDat]

Looking at your photo, I can't see the return line from the FPR. It should be in the red circle under the hose going to the valve cover. The return line has a 90 degree bend towards the front, so I would expect to see the second clamp. Im wondering if it is connected correctly. If it is, follow it through to the hose next to the filter. Disconect it there and test the pressure again.

To test the pressure. Remove the little spade terminal wire on the starter motor so you can turn the key to start position to run the pump, but not crank the engine. Don't need to crank the engine to test the FPR. Like already mentioned, it should be reading around 36 psi. 55 is way too much and will flood the engine. The ECU is expecting 36 psi and won't compensate for high pressure.

The 77 model had the two inlets (in blue circles) and the outlet (red circle) with a 90 degree bend. The 78 version had one inlet on the back side of the FPR. It's clear youhave the 77.

[Av8ferg]

EuroDat,
Great explanation, I will check that as soon as I get back. I checked my other photos and I just can’t see under that hose covering that connection. One note was after I had all that pressure when I tested the rail I could later hear gurgling back near the fuel tank. It sounded like fuel slowing returning to the tank. This was several minutes later. I’d think it would have occurred almost immediately. Might be indicative of a small blockage in three.


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[Av8ferg]

Here’s a photo I took before removing the fuel rail. I can see what your are talking about.

 

 

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[Av8ferg]

No, these were just the small injector connectors and the ones on the thermostat housing.
They were like $10 to $20?
I can find them later today.

Let me know if you find them. I see all sort of variations on eBay. Prices are wildly different. I want to order them tonight so I can bring them back to Memphistan.


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[Dave WM]

make sure you get a new vacuum line for the FPR to the intake manifold

Edited February 9, 2018 by Dave WM

[siteunseen]

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

Let me know if you find them. I see all sort of variations on eBay. Prices are wildly different. I want to order them tonight so I can bring them back to Memphistan.


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Here's what I bought.  Can't tell is he still in bidness? 

 

Edited February 10, 2018 by siteunseen

[EuroDat]

I replaced my EV1 connectors with these 4 years ago. Very neat compact plug. Never had any trouble with them and much easier to remove then the originals.

If you buy two sets of 6 you will have enough for all the two wire connectors and two spare.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-QTY-EV1-FUEL-INJECTOR-CONNECTOR-QUICK-RELEASE-double-sealed-/181954792631?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10

You can buy a complete kit for around $50 - 60, but the plugs are the long version . All these plugs are the short conpact version. And with the wire you can shorten the original  wire and solder them to a clean section of wire.

The TPS and AFM don't have that option. You will need a special crimping tool for them.

For the 3 pin afm connector, search for "bosch 3 pin connector"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-3-PIN-FEMALE-CONNECTOR-BMW-PORSCHE-MERCEDES-VOLVO-SAAB-WIRING-HARNESS/391975738836?hash=item5b43931dd4:g:MA4AAOSwd4tT2BJS&vxp=mtr

 

For the 7 pin afm connector, search for "bosch 7 pin connector"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-7-PIN-FEMALE-HARNESS-CONNECTOR-MERCEDES-PORSCHE-BMW-VOLVO-ENGINE-HARNESS/391890689846?epid=1847139851&hash=item5b3e815f36:g:NnUAAOSwxH1T2UeV&vxp=mtr

 

 

Edited February 10, 2018 by EuroDat

[EuroDat]

Just to add my 2 cents on these connectors. I have repaired a couple of 280Z and a couple of european bosch variants which are basic the same thing.

A LOT of these ebay sellers are just flipping stuff you can get from aliexpress. Clues like the brown insulator plugs point towards a lot of aliexpress stuff. Not saying they are bad quality, just cheaper when sourced directly.

I have original Nissan, original Bosch, Aliexpress and a couple from ebay. I can not say one is better than the other.

In the first photo is a mix from bosch (with blue tyco insulators) and stuff from aliexpress, note the brown insulators. Second photo is a typical kit from aliexpress.

The  harness (spare) in the last photo has the purple ebay connectors with the extra wire and nissan harness on the temperature sensors which are a bugger to remove from the sensor.