Av8ferg Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share #121 Posted February 10, 2018 I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a set on eBay from Classic Imports 240z seller. He’s got great reviews and seems to deal on classic Z parts. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injector-AFM-TPS-Wiring-Harness-Connector-Kit-for-Datsun-280z-Nissan-280zx/152245949681?fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item237290d4f1:g:MwsAAOSwhQhY2B2GSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share #122 Posted February 10, 2018 I went ahead and pulled the trigger on a set on eBay from Classic Imports 240z seller. He’s got great reviews and seems to deal on classic Z parts. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Injector-AFM-TPS-Wiring-Harness-Connector-Kit-for-Datsun-280z-Nissan-280zx/152245949681?fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item237290d4f1:g:MwsAAOSwhQhY2B2GSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted February 10, 2018 Share #123 Posted February 10, 2018 22 hours ago, Av8ferg said: Last time I sprayed starting fluid in the intake and turned it over I got a small pop and fire started at the entrance of the intake manifold. You might pick a single thing and make sure it's right. Lot's of jumping around without actually fixing anything. Fuel pressure that's too high, Don't know if the ECU is opening the injectors (or if it's even connected to the coil's negative terminal), Don't know if the injectors have power (apparently, since you're planning to replace the connectors), Don't know if valve timing is correct, (popping back through the intake is a sign), Don't know if spark timing is correct. Each one of these can be confirmed or fixed, independently of the others. We suggested running your return line in to a can so that you'd know if the rail or return line was plugged and your next few posts are about buying new electrical connectors. I've spent several minutes squirting blasts of starting fluid in to a wood chipper engine, keeping it running while I waited for good fuel to get pulled up to the carb from the cruddy tank. It didn't work but when I was done I knew the engine was fine and I had a dirty fuel tank. Focus! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share #124 Posted February 10, 2018 Zed Head, Agreed, I don’t think the connectors are the reason it’s not starting but I do know mine are bad. They are cracked and will not stay on the injectors. They pull off with not effort and will not lock in. They need to be replaced. Since I’m running through the FSM continuity checks and already found a problem it’s seems prudent to make sure the connections are solid. I don’t think it’s too outside the box. I know I need to test the AFM, I know the tank is shot and I plan on addressing those items as soon as I return. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share #125 Posted February 10, 2018 BTW, I’m laughing because my wife always says I need to focus on a single task too. I’m distracted easily [emoji849] I think part of it stems from the work I do. I flew fighters for 21 years and you are constantly changing tasks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share #126 Posted February 10, 2018 I do appreciate the help in case I forgot to mention it. I’d be way behind without your help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share #127 Posted February 15, 2018 Thanks for the link to the EFI Theory and Troubleshooting guide. Ive been reading it from begining to end,. I learned a lot and its given me a logical path forward. I head back to Memphis to work on the car this weekend. First step in the troubleshooting section says that the greatest source of problems with the injection system is the connections. Like I said before mine are in terrible shape. While I know Zed Head mentioned that i need to focus on isolating the probelm step by step, I feel not addressing the wiring/connections will lead me down some rabbit holes. i.e. thinking i have a bad component vs a bad connection. Also, something I have forgotten to mention until researching starting issues online that I wanted to ask you pros if you think it could be another clue to my issue. When I turn the ignition key to the “on” position I get no lights in the car. I mean no dash lights. I think I'm suppsed to see the red “brake” light and the red oil pressure light and possibly a buzzer. I could be wrong, I dont know what I'm suppsed to see becasue i see not lights at all. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted February 15, 2018 Share #128 Posted February 15, 2018 Caig DeOxit is a liquid that one can use on suspect electrical connections to clean oxidation and improve continuity. Great stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted February 15, 2018 Share #129 Posted February 15, 2018 Yeah, you should get the red light under the radio and the buzzer 5 or 6 times with the key in ON position. Have those ever worked? There's an IGN fuse that could be blown, or the ignition switch could be bad. Do you have head lights, brake lights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share #130 Posted February 16, 2018 Cliff, When I got the car it had no battery. After putting in a new battery in and trying to turn the car over, I got nothing, no powerto anything. I check the normal fuses in the passenger kick panel and they were all good. I then jumped the stater terminals with a screw driver and I could get the engine to turn over. This was how I did my engine compression check. I did some research and I read about the fusible links in the engine compartment and how they could be a problem. My car was missing one fusible link and the other two looked old and cracked. I bought all new ones and cleaned the terminals well. That enabled the car to turn over. I still have no interior lights. I’ve never tried the turn on the headlights. Is it possible I have a bad ignition switch? Could that also explain why the fuel pump doesn’t work with the key in the “on” position. I don’t want to jump to conclusions here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave WM Posted February 16, 2018 Share #131 Posted February 16, 2018 (edited) anytime the car is having problems starting, its a good idea to check the starter switch. Its easy to get out, pull it sit down with a continuity checker and go thru the terminals flow the FSM and check function esp full range of the "start" turn. Take this advice from someone that intermittent start issues for a year before doing that. Since its replacement it starts perfect every time. Edited February 16, 2018 by Dave WM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share #132 Posted February 16, 2018 Dave, I saw a guy posted a video of testing his Z ignition switch. You’re right it looks fairly easy. I’m glad a replacement is affordable if it is bad. When you don’t know the history of a vehicle and why it came off the road 18 yrs ago so many things can be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Parman
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