Bringing a 1977 Z back life

[siteunseen]

My '77 has a newer switch.  I've read were in the "good ole days" people had a massive amount of crap on their keychains.  The weight of said crap wasn't copasetic with the switches so in turn they failed prematurely.  Now I have 2 keys, one stays in the switch and the door key sits in the ashtray.

Hopefully that's your problem?

Good luck. 

[Dave WM]

IF yours test bad (no need to replace if ok of course) I suggest you get OE, they are still available and not expensive, generally about 40$ shipped if you shop around. think the aftermarkets maybe 10$ cheaper, does not seem worth the saving IMHO.

[Av8ferg]

Good news.  Just tested my ignition switch and it is totally dead doing the continuity test.  I just  bought a new one, tested it with the multimeter and now headed to my garage to install it.  Will report back.  

 

[Av8ferg]

One humiliation after another.  Got the switch installed and when i turned it over got the “floor heat” (not sure what the heck that light means), no other lights (oil pressure or brake).  I stated to go through the steps for No Start in the EFI manual.  During the power relay test I didnt get a click sound from relay,   I tested yhe voltage at it stated on pin 4 and a ground and got nothing.  Says to go to service manual EF-47.   I cannot ge the FSM on my ipad (wont unzip and asks for password, downloaded from Xenoncar) and dont have a laptop with me.  I’ll print the FSM at work tonight.

This is getting painful.  As soon as I think I might have found a solution I hit another roadblock.  

[Zed Head]

CZCC.com has the FSM"s here also.  1976 is very close to 77 if you just want to download a chapter instead of the whole book.

http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

The Floor Heat warning is just a sensor over the catalytic converter area, and relay.  Probably comes on when the key is on but engine not running to verify that the lamp is good, like the Brake Check lamp does.

You said "turned it over".  That means Start.  Did you check for power with the key ON.  Check for power at the coil, and at an injector plug or two.  Those are out at the ends of the circuit and will tell you if the relays are working, to a point anyway.

You can learn a lot with the key On, and a meter check at a variety of spots.

[Av8ferg]

Zed Head, Thanks. That might have been the problem. I don’t think the key was in “On” I think it was in “ACC”. I hope that was the bonehead mistake I made. The old ignition switch was definitely bad. Tested both new and old side by side with the multi meter. I’m on a work trip will attach when I get back. Thanks for the link. [emoji106]. OBTW I meant crank not turn over. Words have meanings especially when details matter.


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[Av8ferg]

Gents, back working on the Z. I’ve solved a couple problems but still have others I’m working on.
I’ve got fuel pressure issue fixed. It’s holding stable at 35-40 psi with the pump running. I still have to jump the pump to the battery as it will not work with the key. I disconnected the starter power and stated going through the checks in the FSM. It appears I’m getting no power to both the fuel pump or the injectors. I also don’t hear any click on the drivers side kick panel.
Finally, I have need help with something on the intake manifold. There is small connection that I don’t know where it is supposed to go. See photo. When I try and start the car it spits air out this hole. When I putting starting fluid in there my assistant said a blue flame shot out of this hole. Any ideas what’s supposed to be attached here?


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Edited February 22, 2018 by Av8ferg

[Zed Head]

That's a vacuum port for the charcoal canister.  It should be sealed if it's not connected to the canister.

The blue flame is from a backfire in to the intake manifold.  That would be from either running lean (big vacuum leak) or a timing problem.  Find or make a plug for it, squirt some fluid in there, seal it up, and try to start it.  It's a pretty big vacuum leak if it's open.  It might start and run.

[rcb280z]

See that vacuum hose just to the right of that intake port? It looks like the vacuum hose that's supposed to be connected there. You might want to look at that. I'm pretty sure thats the hose.

Edited February 22, 2018 by rcb280z

[Av8ferg]

ZH, thanks.  I found that hose to the canister.  

I just pulled the power relay off..  Is there a way to test this off the car?  Here some close ups of it. 

 

[Av8ferg]

On a side note.  I discovered I had some battery connection problems.  The two red wires coming from the fire wall were both connected to the positive terminal, looking at the cars wiring diagram one is supposed to go to negative and the other the positive. My battery positive side fuse link had one of the two wires cut,  I don’t know why there are two small wires from that connection but I connected one back to the positive.  Does this look right now?

 

 

Edited February 22, 2018 by Av8ferg

[siteunseen]

Man, I like those battery terminals! 

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