siteunseen Posted March 27, 2018 Share #241 Posted March 27, 2018 Just remember the trailer fender on the driver's side lets down so you can open the car door. I didn't know that and crawled out the hatch! I pulled my camry to the top of my driveway, trailer at the bottom, with my mower. Unhooked everything and rolled the camry right up on the trailer. Had an extra set of eyes looking out for me. You can also use a cheap cable come along. Just make sure the trailer is going downhill. The best engine would b the f54 block and the n42 head. Then you begin your spare parts collection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2018 Share #242 Posted March 27, 2018 Don't be fooled by the ebay motors in front of a stock it and lock it building. They're lip stick on a pig motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share #243 Posted March 27, 2018 Here’s pics of the car near me in Memphis with the N42. I have already pulled some parts off this car. It’s about 80 miles away. How hard will it be to lift and engine in and out the back of a 4Runner? https://cpprohomeky.car-part.com/image?seller=9277&partGUID=9277-1-187939&vehicleGUID=9277-1-V6236&display=1975 Nissan 280 Z Fender Assembly-Stock%23 N1774# Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 27, 2018 Share #244 Posted March 27, 2018 I've often used a come-along and the rafters in the garage. Not a single rafter though, place a 4x4 across 4 of 5 rafters to distribute the load. I bought a chain hoist to make it easier when I decided to swap engines. site was on target with "spare parts collection". I almost feel like we should be warning you... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share #245 Posted March 27, 2018 Yeah, was thinking of grabbing this engine while towing the back to NC but I won’t be able to get that sucker out of my 4runner easily. Wife is already unhappy with my car fetish and a spare engine lying around will only fuel her disdane. If she caught me putting a chain around our garage rafters I’d be sleeping outside for awhile. This might just be a bad idea. Maybe just focus on getting this engine in the car fixed and someday rebuild it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 27, 2018 Share #246 Posted March 27, 2018 I was imagining one of the old original 4Runners with the removable back half. I wouldn't try to put a complete engine in an SUV. Transmissions are easy, engines too bulky and heavy. Odds are in your favor on the engine that's in there. They are very durable, except for if the cam lobes run dry or they get overheated. You could build a table top to set on the $100 engine as a disguise. Picnic table maybe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2018 Share #247 Posted March 27, 2018 (edited) Does your '77 have the N47 head like it came with or has it been swapped out? That's the #1 part on these motors and the N47 is the worst from all I've read. Mine is used for experimenting, like grinding the intake ports or unshrouding the valves. The N42 everybody likes you are reading about is the head. The N42 block, up until 1979 has low compression dished pistons. My N47 head has a spray bar and an oiler cam. It was built late 1976 and is when they started changing stuff. Edited March 27, 2018 by siteunseen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share #248 Posted March 27, 2018 Mine is an N47 head. It’s as dirty as hell. I’m going to try as clean it up but worry that crud may fall into the valves. Can you spray carb cleaner on the head and rockers etc with it installed on the engine without causing problems? I’ll take close up pics when I get home for you guys. I’m sitting in a hotel near Mexico City and won’t be back in Memphis until Friday?. Just hanging in my room researching getting the car rolling. Just order a timing chain tool on a Amazon so I can adjust the chain/sprocket. I also ordered a new oil pump from Partsology for $30.69 with gasket, zcar depot wanted $9 just for gasket. I’ll have about 12 hours to install the fuel tank and all the crap associated with it. Put a new oil pump in and set the spindle correctly, clean the oil spray bars, maybe the head and then adjust the chain timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share #249 Posted March 27, 2018 On a side note. I was in Billings Montana last week and ran into the Z car guy in that area. Found an add on Craigslist. I went to his house and wow ? you would not believe the Z cars parts he had. He had a 240 and 260 for sale. Both 3k, but not running. Looked like rust free for the most part. He had a three car garage and a 20ft trailer full of parts. I saw about a dozen AFMs and ECUs at least 3 engines, and every little part you could imagine. Hatches, doors etc. He had a nice dash that he wanted 1k for. If you guys want his contact information let me know. He also had a 280 with. V8 not for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2018 Share #250 Posted March 27, 2018 (edited) A piece of Scotch Brite pad and diesel fuel is what I used. With the plugs out spin the motor and watch the cam and spray bar. You'll see which ones need attention. I'm pretty sure @240260280 told me how to do that. Here's a cam he cleaned up the same way. Here's mine after rebuilding the motor. I put a rod down into the oil pump from the dizzy hole and chucked it up to my drill. Took about 10 seconds and with the drill on HIGH and that stuff shot out all over me. This is the N42 head with an oiler cam. Your N47 should have the same plus the spray bar. Edited March 27, 2018 by siteunseen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted March 27, 2018 Share #251 Posted March 27, 2018 I'm not sure that all 1977 N47 heads have both a spray bar and holed cam lobes. My 1978 N47 head has only the holed cam lobes, no spray bar. The holes are easy to see though, so it will be apparent. I've spun a ZX engine with a gear reduction starter and got the bubbling crude through the holes. The early starters aren't gear reduction and I think that they might spin a little faster, depending on battery size and charge. With a spray bar you only have to worry about oil flinging from the spinning lobes, not squirting outward. Most of the oil spillage is over the edge of the head, down the side of the block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siteunseen Posted March 27, 2018 Share #252 Posted March 27, 2018 7 minutes ago, Zed Head said: I'm not sure that all 1977 N47 heads have both a spray bar and holed cam lobes. My 1978 N47 head has only the holed cam lobes, no spray bar. The holes are easy to see though, so it will be apparent. I've spun a ZX engine with a gear reduction starter and got the bubbling crude through the holes. The early starters aren't gear reduction and I think that they might spin a little faster, depending on battery size and charge. With a spray bar you only have to worry about oil flinging from the spinning lobes, not squirting outward. Most of the oil spillage is over the edge of the head, down the side of the block. No they don't, you're right. early '77s do, not sure of the month though. Mine was built in September of '76. This looks a little weird to me. It's round but way too big. Maybe it's a stopped up hole? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarb
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