Okay I spent the last 2 hrs cleaning the head and valve cover where it had caked oil everywhere.  It’s not perfect but I got most of the debris that I feel confident nothing is going to get stuck in a valve or spring.  Added assembly lube to the cam lobes.  Spray bar is cleaned out and installed with homemade gaskets The dizzy is back and all hooked up.  Whew....

Nice job!!  Get that oil changed & fire her up,  Hear the roar of that inline 6 come to life ....

FYI,  if you have not stocked up on oil filters,  a excellent choice is NAPA's gold 1515 or Wix 51515 (they are the same).  Genuine Nissan is of course great.

Looks like you have  STP currently,  not know for quality.

Screw U-Haul! That baby's gonna make it on it's on.

Well, all that’s left to do know is install the fuel tank. The shop that did the work on the tank was closed today so I couldn’t pick it up.  

Regarding the oil filters, I’ll grab a few at Napa and dump the STP.  

Will she run?  I think I’ve done just about everything that I can think of to get it ready.   

I can’t get the tank until Tuesday   because I fly to Boise tomorrow (yep Easter) for work and come back Tues.  

 

Like a famous flagger once said...

https://g.co/kgs/6PaCvX

Edited April 1, 20186 yr by siteunseen

Moving back to this thread for a question.  As I was tracking down misc hoses disconnected And looking through the FSM i found where two of my emmisions/ vacuum hoses belong.  They go to this thing called the Thermal Vacuum Valve.  It appears the plastic connection to mine are broken off.  See attached photo.  My car is a CA model.  What is the function of this thing and do i need it connected?  My assumption is Yes but wanted to ask before spending more $$.  

looks like control the EGR, makes sure it does not operate (open) until engine is warmed up. You don't want EGR and a cold engine.

I think I would plug these two hoses.  I removed all that stuff and put an N42 intake manifold on mine.  In the end I just had to plug the one at the throttle plate, lower left in the photo.

If I remember right it sits on top of the heating plate that connects to the thermostat housing and connects to BPT valve, whatever that is/was.

Edited May 3, 20186 yr by siteunseen

Guess it depends if you want the EGR to function as it should.

What does the EGR do for me?  I’m not worried about emissions just want it to run well.  I’ve seen the EGR delete kits, what are the pros and cons?

all kinds of opinions here. I am not qualified to answer other than to say what I have read indicates deleting it has no real performance advantage at full throttle (contrary opinions exist of course). Some say it will benefit the gas mileage at partial throttle, Seems the main thing it is designed for is to lower the combustion temps to reduce the creation oxides of nitrogen (key to making smog). I geek out over trying to respect the original design so tend to go that direction. I have it and AFAIK its not a problem. A recent trip returned 25mpg at mostly 70-80  mph. The main thing is to make sure the EGR valve is clean and fully closed at idle to prevent an leak of gas into the intake that would cause a rough idle. Easy to test just lift up the diaphragm of the actuator while idling. It will run rough, release and it should settle right back down.

For me the idea of lowering combustion temps was the ticket, I like that. I don't have a lead foot and tend to take it easy mostly very short trips and the occasional long trip. It is one more thing to go wrong, but its not very complicated so not hard to service and have working right.

 

Edited May 3, 20186 yr by Dave WM