Bringing a 1977 Z back life

[Av8ferg]

Capt Obvious, is that Thermal Vacuum Switch from RockAuto meant for a 280z. When I put the year make and model 1977 280z, it didn’t come up with the close out switch.  This is what I found, 

[Av8ferg]

I think I discovered why,  The one you had was for a 1978.  Is there any differenc., my instinct says no.?

[Captain Obvious]

Yeah, it looks like the one I tagged was for 78. I don't know what the difference is, or if it matters. My instincts agree with yours in that it doesn't matter, but unfortunately I'm headed out of town now and won't be able to dig into it for a couple days. If you haven't figured it out, I'll investigate more when I get back.

How many vacuum tube ports are (were?) there on your busted one? Two or three?

The only thing I can think they would change would be a fine tune of the switching temperature. And if that's the case, I don't think you would care.

[Av8ferg]

Worked on the Z today.  The tank wont be ready now until Wednesday so i turned to other tasks. 

-Replaced the clutch slave cylinder

-Removed the front bumper which was damaged on one side and I'm putting 240 bumpers on somewhere in the distant future.

-Removed the brake master cylinder.  It had black residue in the reservoirs and a white chaulk powder inside where it connects to the booster and overall did not look serviceable.  My brakes just go tp the floor also.  Ordering a new one tonight.  

Do you guys always buy OEM parts?  I replaced my clutch salve cylinder by one from Beck Arnley.  

Also cleaned the outside of thr car.  Probably hasn’t been properly washed in at least a decade.   Here are some pics of hos she looks. 

Edited May 7, 2018 by Av8ferg

[Dave WM]

I get OEM if easy to get. Example IGN switch, can still get cost 40$ vs 25$ for the aftermarket, not enough money savings to warrant after market. Pretty much apply that to most non critical stuff. really just have to do a case by case basis. I spent 250$ on a OE fuel pump vs 100$ for an after market,  I just thought the OE would be more reliable AND a better match for the needs of the FI system (OE had lower pressure output, you don't need 90psi, so why stress out the FPR and plumbing for that). I notice you don't have a shroud on the rad, I don't know if that will effect the cooling in hot weather of the engine, but also you should consider the effect on the AC, you need the air flowing thru the condenser which may need the shroud even if the rad does not.

[Av8ferg]

Good point on the fan shroud and philosophy on OEM parts.  Car came without a shroud and I replaced the radiator because when they tested the old one at a shop it had 5 leaks and it was cheaper to buy a new one.  Not sure if a OEM shroud will fit if I can find one...

[Av8ferg]

O’reillys has a master cylinder for $52.  Its made by Nabco (same co that made my OEM clutch master but is not a Tokico.) An OEM Tokico one is online from $250-$329,  not sure if thats worth it.  

[Dave WM]

Don't know anything about brake brands, I am pretty sure mine is not OE and has been fine so far (2 yrs + on it).

I hope you kept your old rad, you can get them recored at a good shop. The thing about alum is its not really fixable like old copper brass stuff. I had a fan break loose and tear out a row of tubes, took it to a gas station on an interstate, he soldered them up and sent me on my way. the water pump failed was able get one of those and got me on my way. I see a lot of new copper brass rads, but I don't know who makes or how good they are. Also IIRC the drain seem to be in the wrong place for my setup.

Edited May 7, 2018 by Dave WM

[Av8ferg]

Darn, I tossed that old rad.  It looked like it was a prop in the Mad Max movie. They wanted $300 to repair it.    I really can’t srore parts where the car is anyway and im already on the bad side with the owner for various garage infractions.  

[Dave WM]

not a huge deal, I am sure if you ever wanted one another could be obtained. Just keep an eye on that alum one. Hopefully it will not be an issue. I don't recall seeing shrouds on any alum install so my guess is they don't fit up right. I am only guessing about the need for it as far as AC is concerned, perhaps its not an issue.

[Av8ferg]

Yep, and my car has AC so it might become a problem.  If it does I’ll probably have to go with electric fans. 

[Zed Head]

7 hours ago, Av8ferg said:

O’reillys has a master cylinder for $52.  Its made by Nabco (same co that made my OEM clutch master but is not a Tokico.) An OEM Tokico one is online from $250-$329,  not sure if thats worth it.  

Several of us have found that the main problem with the aftermarket or reman hydraulics is that they're dirty inside, with machining swarf/grit left over, that will eat the new seals pretty quickly.  Just disassemble and clean them and you'll probably be fine.