Then when you get it running and want to clean up the engine build yourself a fuel rail.  They greatly reduce fuel percolation in the hot weather restart problem, FYI.

 

those screws on the injectors work well with a hand held impact driver. need a good fitting bit, and a sharp whack with a hammer.

Gents, I’m at a temp work stoppage.  Got called into work and won’t be back until Thursday night. 

Pump almost made it in but a hose clamp broke so need to buy a new one.  The fuel rail is sanded and painting just need to put it back together.  Radiator arrives today so it will sit in the snow on my front porch for a day.  Rebuilt original alternator will be ready to be picked up today too. 

I’m ordering those hex bolts for the injectors and buying new seals too.  Still haven’t got that stubborn injector sure out yet either, 

Thanks for the fuel line and clamp tip. Lady at Auto Zome tried to sell me a non injection hose.  Got 4 ft of the good stuff.  

After all this time and $, I hope this engine starts and is healthy enough to drive.    I’ll be sad if it was all for nothing. 

 

Edited January 17, 20187 yr by Av8ferg

Fingers crossed for you Ferg.  It needed to be done anyway I always say.  You know things you've done are right in those spots too, you won't have to worry.

Good luck!  

Cliff

Glad to have you and the others on this forum guiding me through this process otherwise I’d be in way over my head. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This a group of friends.  Everyone's trying to help here, no discontented jack wads. 

While I’m away I ordered these stainless steel hex bolts for the injectors on the recommendations you guys made,  They’re a little more expensive than the ones you found but can’t beat Amazon’s fast delivery,  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L0E1698/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also ordered new injectors seals from O’Reilly’s.  They were $2.99 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/bwd-3123/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-injection-16471/diesel-fuel-injector-17271/fuel-injector-seal-o-ring-kit-12312/bwd-fuel-injector-seal-kit/274776/2583514/1977/nissan/280z?q=Injector+seal

 

Ferg,  each injector uses 2 seals, the ones you show look like only the bigger seal.  The small one seals the injector to the intake port.

Orielly has the correct kit,  https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/bwd-3123/fuel---emissions-16775/fuel-injection-16471/diesel-fuel-injector-17271/fuel-injector-seal-o-ring-kit-12312/bwd-fuel-injector-seal-kit/274031/2583445/1977/nissan/280z?q=fuel+injector+seals

Amazon has Beck Arnley which are good quality in sets of 4,  order 2 kits and have 2 spare seals for the same price.

https://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-158-0022-Injection-Ring/dp/B000CB1V2S/ref=sr_1_12?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1516236313&vehicle=1977-67-874-20--7-8-7-5564-1068-1-4-1819--1-0&sr=1-12&ymm=1977%3Anissan%3A280z&keywords=fuel+injector+seal+kit

Edited January 18, 20187 yr by S30Driver

Ahh, thanks just called O’Reilly’s and changed to that set of seals, thanks for the heads up! 

 

Looks like the small ones to me... Aspect ratio.  Compare to your full kit picture.  Don't know...

The big ones almost never really need replacing.  They're the part that the clamp presses on to seal the small ones.

Edit - but it won't hurt to replace them.  Unless you stab your finger with the pick you're using to try to peel them off of the injector body.

Edited January 18, 20187 yr by Zed Head

I’m back and spent the better part of the day putting everything back together.  Fuel rail is rebuilt all new fuel lines in the engine campartment and I replaced all the injectors (not new but ones that tested good).  I put the replacement fuel pump in and tried to test it with the positive cable to the starter removed, and I didn’t hear the fuel pump humming when I turned the key.  I checked the clear filter I installed in a line exiting the fuel take and it was completely dry, I also added some more fuel to the tank.  I then reconnected the starter and tried to crank the car.  It turns over but nothing else happens.  I went back and checked the filter again and it was still total dry.  So it tested good on when I had it off and jumped it with the car battery.  I didn’t test if it moved fuel but it was buzzing like crazy.  The old pump did nothing when I did that test.  So I don’t know what’s next.  I image there is a relay or something that not sending voltage to the pump so no fuel is gettting to he engine.  Do you guys have any ideas of what I should do now?

I would get a section of low psi fuel hose, 3 or 4 feet. Attach that to the suck side of pump and drop the other end in a 2.5 gallon gas jug.  Bypassing the tank altogether.  That's what I would do.