Hey,  just bought a 1977 Z that im waking from a long +15 year comma.  Loloking for guidance as to what i should do and in what order. 

Compression check done.  All Cylinder are in the 180s except 1 which showed 145.  I changed all the plugs, oil and filters.  I also drained the old fuel and fuel filter.  Radiator was empty and thermostat had disentegrated cavities in the cooling systme had white powered residue.  Car will only turn over when i jump the starter leads with a screw driver and get nothing, no power when tunring the ignition key,  

So what do you all recommend I do next?  Will post pics of the car when i bought it.  Ive had it about 10 days.  

 

Sorry about the long video. 

I like the idea of running wires to the pump straight from the battery.  I just want to see it start and if it does I’ll drill down on the cause of lack of voltage to the pump.  Off to Walmart to buy to wire that’s long enough to reach the pump.  

I also got my new radiator installed today.  Making process...

Amazing how handling things gives them a cleaner look. 

Alligator clips for the pump and the battery I suppose. Fortunately I had a bad charger I robbed the clamps off of.  I use it more than I thought testing things.

20ft of speaker wire.  Hell an old 25ft extension cord would work too.

Edited January 21, 20187 yr by siteunseen

If it runs straight wired, tape the wire down the passenger's side and take your maiden voyage. Not too far though.

Well, pulled the pump out wired to the battery and ran a hose into a gas can.  When I pressurized the system I had fuel spray out one of the new hoses I installed...oops.  I tighened all the clamps up and did it again.  The fuel press gauge went to 60 psi.  I went to turn the car over and........nothing.   While turning over I hear a fairly loud “psssst” about every 2 seconds while it’s turning over, seems to be coming near intake.  Now I’m wondering if it’s getting a spark....or are the injectors get voltage?  If the pump wasn’t getting power maybe the injectors aren’t either.  Back to the drawing board.  This is getting frustrating.  Check out this ghetto setup. 

I can also hear gas returning to the main fuel tank from the return line.  

Just checked the coil is fired by pulling the wire and cranking.  I’m getting a good arc on the shock tower I set the output wire from the coil to.

Edited January 21, 20187 yr by Av8ferg

Are you getting spark on a plug? If you shoot some ether in it will it bump over?

1 hour ago, Av8ferg said:

I can also hear gas returning to the main fuel tank from the return line.  

Are you sure that's what you're hearing?  Your fuel pressure is way too high.  Kind of looks like you have your inlet and outlet lines to the fuel rail backward, and the inlet is pumping in to the return end of the FPR.  Your stock pump has an internal relief valve that lets go at 43 to ~60 psi.  If you pump in to the wrong end of the FPR you'll max out your fuel pump pressure.

The line from the pump should feed directly in to the rail.  The FPR is like a pressure relief valve.  It lets fuel by to return to the tank after set pressure is reached.

Can't remember if the top line or bottom line is the inlet.  Looks like you're using the top as the inlet.  To the FSM....

Just went and checked a rail in the garage.  The top line looks right as the inlet.  Your pressure is too high for some reason.  Looks like you have two problems - no injection and high fuel pressure.  Very close.

You can use carb cleaner also as a starter fluid.  Try Patcon's suggestion, just for inspiration.

Have a hose pipe or fire extinguisher on the ready too.

Don't get mad at me but swapping in SU carbs was very popular in the late 70s, early 80s.  The "computer" on our Zs only ran the EFI, FYI.  Once they're set you're good to go. 8^)

$500 give or take.  Like an old VW too.  

 

Edited January 21, 20187 yr by siteunseen

 I agree with Cliff. IMO, If one likes screwing around with suspect electrical components, EFI is the answer. If, however, one is more mechanically inclined and wants to move on to other parts of the project, SU's are the answer. They are the most reliable, trouble free carbs I've ever dealt with. Fantastic for the street.

 I might add that RossiZ swapped to SU's after refurbishing the entire EFI system. He loves SU's on his 280 daily driver.

Okay. I’d consider switching to carbs if this pain doesn’t cease. My question is what is the total cost of this change? Do I need a new intake? I guess I’m asking what does this entail? I have an person I know who has brand new unopened dual Weber’s he was going to install in his 240z. He ended up selling the 240z. He realized the rust was beyond his expertise and had all these extra parts he intended to install. He’s just a guy I ran into a few months ago in VA. I was in the market for a 240 and looked at his for sale. It was a rust bucket but he said if I ever need carbs call him.
Other than the carbs, what else do I need? BTW he also has a totally rebuilt L24 long block and rebuilt 5 speed tranny if anyone is interested. He’s 70 and want to move all his extra stuff. He sold the car and still has that extra stuff.


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