window sash and 1/4 window seals

[Richard McDonel]

Good evening All,

A question  and a thought

First the question.  I am installing new inner and outer seals on my 240Z quarter windows.  I got the glass into the new inner seal, using a sealant as Humble in the How to Restore book recommends, but  no way could I get the metal frame to reach around it.  With great effort, I was at least 1/4 - probably more - short of getting the screw holes on the front part of the frame to reach those on the main piece.  Thinking that perhaps the glass was binding in the rubber, I cleaned out the sealant and replaced  it with light-weight grease.  I still  can't squeeze the two frame components together.  I honest can't recall where I bought the rubber seals, I've been at the project for so long, but interestingly the part number on the package it came in is 80811 N4520, which is definitely not the number shown on the CarPartsManual site.  The rubber seal seems to fit the glass exactly, but no way can I clamp the metal on to it.  Anyone know what this part number represents?  

Now, something I figured out.  The Humble Restore Your Z book  (p 161), directs you to install the door sash / window frame into the door, and attach loosely, then install the window.  The FSM doesn't say that, but shows the window going in or coming out, with the frame in place.  I monkeyed with that for at least an hour, even putting tape on the door sill to protect it from the window frame hardware.  No way was the glass going in.  Finally I removed the frame, and the window dropped right in.  And contrary to my fears, I had no trouble replacing the sash / frame.  So, ignore the books and go window first, frame second.   

[Patcon]

The glass can be installed with the frame in place, but it can be challenging. As I recall you tip the front down into the door first at an angle then rotate the back down into the door

 

[Richard McDonel]

Patcon,

Thanks for replying.  I read the material about how the window goes in front-down, and tried it repeatedly at angles ranging form near-horizontal to near-vertical, but there was always interference.  With the frame out, it was much, much easier, and I highly recommend it.  

ps, for this back-yard amateur mechanic / career pencil-pusher, the body work stuff is proving much more perplexing that the engine, suspension and drive-train work.  

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, Richard McDonel said:

the body work stuff is proving much more perplexing that the engine, suspension and drive-train work.  

I have worked with my hands for decades and I find this to be true also. Did you have the exterior window sweep off? The frame on the bottom of the glass was the problem as I recall. You sort of have to man handle it to get it into the door.

[jfa.series1]

From the school of lessons learned, it is far easier to install the door window without the frame in place.  Dropping in the frame after the window is in and settled in with the regulator is pretty straightforward.  Also, by removing the frame you get to inspect all of the channel materials, replace as might be required.  New ones make a world of difference in a snug fit for the glass.