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240z body work. Advice?


sisask

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We are doing a project with z and my biggest concern is that in Estonia we have these kind of cars only four. So that means that i cant get the full advice like I would need.  We have done body work and welded. We should be ready in the middle of march. 

Every car has a manual what is fully made for the specific car. Like what kind of layers are used. The same is for example with porche. So I would like some advice what would those four layers be?

 
Would someone give the right information about it.
 

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Edited by sisask
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Hello sisask,  Welcom here...

By 4 layers you mean the paint layers? oh well there are enough people here who know alot of that and i could ask my painter also.. I'm restoring a 280zx and should also be ready in march, 2018.. but it's at the painter for a year or so now hahaha i'm in no hurry and so is he!

Tell us what it is you want to know..

 

BTW  (by the way..)  We here in the Netherlands had a big car show, could be bigger than the one in sweden, (when i see those 4 halls..)  the MECC in Maastricht is 35000 m2 big... 

https://www.interclassicsmaastricht.nl/en/

Greetings from the Netherlands, Mart

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Thank you Mart!

It is mostly like what kind of specifik materials would it needed to be used before the real paint. 

We have welded the car really nice way and the rest of the work we want to make so original way as possible.

I would really appreciate i you can find some time for it! 

 

To that car expedition i would definitely go next year! Cause I work with different cars every day.

Here is the link to my homepage: http://carrestoration.ee/

 

 

Edited by sisask
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Today's coatings are very different from 1970's coatings.  I'm not even sure that they used two component (2K) coatings back then.  They used single-stage enamel, maybe even a lacquer.  Generally not as durable as a 2K acrylic urethane but that's what you'd use if you want to go with 1970's original.

Someone like kats or hs30 or 26th might know.  There's a seam sealer used inside.  But in the 70's they weren't using much besides a primer and a color coat for paint.  Not even a clear coat or sealer or even protected metal back then.  Two layers, I think, over raw steel.  That's why there's so much rust.

@kats

@HS30-H

@26th-Z

 

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If I were gonna go to the trouble to strip the car and start from scratch. I wouldn't totally reproduce the factory type paint.

I would:

Strip the car to metal

Treat the metal to phosphate the rust

Epoxy coat the bare metal car

Primer & filler

Primer again

If you want a factory looking paint use a single stage paint in a factory color

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We know how to paint the car!

The only question is that how many layers of paint the car should have? 

And what would be the stain protecting structure? 

Mostly we have used ppg colours. It is one of the most expensive work with the car, then we want to make everything correctly from the beginning. 

Edited by sisask
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6 minutes ago, sisask said:

The only question is that how many layers of paint the car should have? 

It's not clear if you want the paint to be exactly like it was when the car was made, or if you want it to look like it was when it was made, or if you want a better paint job that will protect the car as long as possible.  Are you trying to do an exact restoration or a better restoration?  That will determine should.

Number of layers doesn't mean much unless you want it to BE exactly like was when it was made.  That's where the restoration guys who know the history of the cars will have the best knowledge.

 

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To Zed Head

//Today's coatings are very different from 1970's coatings// That is true that i wasnt specific what exactly i would need help with. Do you know the products that are used?  Like advice if i want it to look like it was when it was made.

When the car is coming out from the factory it should have certain manual for everything. That includes even that what kind of certain products are used. After the body work is done then.. How I can say it in best way.. I ain´t going to paint it staight away.

 

Thaks

Edited by sisask
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I used a 3M urethane seam sealer PN08361 and applied it by hand (finger) to all the seams underneath the car and in the fender wells.  Paint was PPG DCC Concept 2-part acrylic urethane in three coats over two (more in some areas) coats of PPG DX primer.  The interior was mostly one coat in areas that were going to be totally covered (footwell, under the dash, roof).  The one coat doesn't cover completely and the primer is somewhat visible.  Two coats for complete coverage included the rear deck and tire well, behind the seats and floor.  I got very good coverage with the spray application.  The painter was slow and knew the product very well.  The exterior body got three coats; the final coat being pretty heavy.  I could see four coats on the outside.  Especially if you want to polish the paint.

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47 minutes ago, 26th-Z said:

I used a 3M urethane seam sealer PN08361 and applied it by hand (finger) to all the seams underneath the car and in the fender wells.  Paint was PPG DCC Concept 2-part acrylic urethane in three coats over two (more in some areas) coats of PPG DX primer.  The interior was mostly one coat in areas that were going to be totally covered (footwell, under the dash, roof).  The one coat doesn't cover completely and the primer is somewhat visible.  Two coats for complete coverage included the rear deck and tire well, behind the seats and floor.  I got very good coverage with the spray application.  The painter was slow and knew the product very well.  The exterior body got three coats; the final coat being pretty heavy.  I could see four coats on the outside.  Especially if you want to polish the paint.

Really Thank You!

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