Flywheel removal.

[Dave WM]

I goofed up the 1st time I did the remain, knocked it in too far, had to pull out (destroyed a oem seal) and redo. the side seals may be ok, on mine it was plain to see they were leaking (streaks of oil coming from the seam). make sure you lock that spring down inside the seal with grease, you don't want it getting knocked loose while tapping in the seal. The factory seal comes pre lubed with grease around the inside lip, the after market ones do not. Main thing is to take your time and gently tap into place with a suitable tool (sounds like something the FSM would say) note where the old one was, should be flush with the block.

[Reptoid Overlords]

I pulled the spark plugs, and was able to turn the engine(in the proper direction). It turned just as it did when I adjusted the valve lash about 2 months ago.

It seems probable that the last person that was in there didn't follow the correct sequence/torque specs and they loosened up over time, causing me to get spooked when the engine didn't turn as I broke them free.

New seals are on the way, and I decided to replace the transmission mount and engine mounts while its up too.

Thanks to all for the sound advice and getting it back on track.

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[Dave WM]

good idea on the trans mount, I did the same. did you pull the console to get the shifter out? I hope not, Its not too hard to just un clip it, and then push up and out of the way, then after trans is in you can re insert. Save the time and hassle of pulling the console off.

[Reptoid Overlords]

I already pulled the console off.

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[Dave WM]

ok well for other that maybe reading up on this thread, it can be done, you just slip up the rubber boot, undo the C clip, there will be room. Do this with the transmission in place, not while its loose.

its a little bit tricky putting back in, a helper on top is advised. Of course its not a huge deal to pull the console, I just hate messing with all the plugs.

[Reptoid Overlords]

Its good to know for next time for sure. I appreciate all tips and shortcuts. It never occurred to me to leave it in place.

It did need to be cleaned up a bit though. I discovered that the car had frequent canine passengers at one point in its life.

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[Zed Head]

51 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

. Of course its not a huge deal to pull the console, I just hate messing with all the plugs.

I hate that too.  If the wires were longer I'd probably do more console removing to do more things that need doing.  I've thought about making a set of a extension wires for it.

[Dave WM]

27 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I hate that too.  If the wires were longer I'd probably do more console removing to do more things that need doing.  I've thought about making a set of a extension wires for it.

Yep just a bit too short, makes getting the routing a bit tricky. I pulled out the "Low fuel" light one time, kept wondering why it would go light up even as I was nearly empty, duh it was not in the socket, prob jostled out when I was doing one of the many console pulls.

[Reptoid Overlords]

Replaced clutch/pilot/throwout with standard OEM spec Exedy kit, resurfaced flywheel, installed new OEM rear main oil seal/side seals/oil pan gasket along with transmission mount and engine mounts.

I forgot to order some Redline MT-90, and put some dinosaur 80W90 GL4 because I just couldn't wait any longer to go test drive the work.

I forgot what a difference that stuff makes. It'll be going back in it soon.

Thanks for all the tips,pointers, and advice. That knowledge is worth more than any shop manual. Of course, manuals help.

Now its on to eating more $3 per gallon fuel.

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