differential half shaft seal. does it require special tools?

[Jeff Berk]

I saw that pulling tool when I first looked up the procedure and thought I needed it to remove the shaft. So to confirm, to replace the seal I do not need to remove that plate, do not need the puller, but do need to remove the side yoke fixing bolt. 

What is the side yoke fixing bolt? Maybe I just need to clean up the differential to see it. 

Edit:

I cleaned off the area around the half shaft to differential and I still cannot locate any bolts except the 5 noted above. What is really odd, when I look at WordWorkerb's site I see this for the 1/2 shaft to diff connection:

It shows four flange bolts and I think a few of the five bolts I previously removed, albeit encrusted with gunk.

I do not have flange bolts on that end of either of my 1/2 shafts. Only at the wheel end.

I'm kind of stuck as to what to do next.

 

Edited February 10, 2018 by Jeff Berk
added more information

[Patcon]

It is probably in the center of the side yoke. Covered in goo

[Zed Head]

3 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

I do not have flange bolts on that end of either of my 1/2 shafts. Only at the wheel end.

I haven't had any of the R180's in front of me but I have noticed there appear to be two different kinds of half-shaft that they used with them.  The typical flanged halfshaft and a half-shaft with u-joint yoke attached.  It's odd but your later R180 has what I thought was the early style, and woodworker B's early 240Z has what I thought was the later style.

But, it's clear from the FSM Rear Axle chapter that what you have is correct for your car.  Here's a picture.  Combine it in your head with one of the the Woodworker B pictures and you should figure out where the bolt head is.

 

[Jeff Berk]

yup... clean off the goo and you never know what you'll find. There was the allusive bolt hidden in the yoke.

I could use some suggestion on how to get that little s*#t out of there.  The 1/2 shaft wheel end is free to flop around so should I find some way of securing it in one place like attaching a pipe to it with two U bolts while I yank on the wrench? I'm worried that I'll just round the head of the bolt. As usual, the FSM shows a mechanic holding the shaft in one hand while turning the wrench with the other. Similar to the directions on removing the rear suspension spindle pin by pulling it out with two fingers.

For the curious, I don't know if it is true, but someone on e-bay that is listing a single bolt shaft says:

These half shafts or rear axle shafts as they are some times known were offered as an option beginning in '74 to reduce rear end vibration. They incorporate the the rear end stub flange into the half shaft eliminating the inside flange on each side of the differential. They are smoother running reduce axle weight and are COOL. 

He sent me the following pic for reference showing the two types of shaft ends:

[Zed Head]

Stick a long screwdriver or metal shaft through the other side of the u-joint.  The other yoke.  The u-joints and yokes are very strong.  While you're breaking the bolt free you can watch the individual bearing caps for play to see if the joints are worn.

[Jeff Berk]

That did it!

Thank you Zed Head, Patcon, DutchzGuy, and Namerow

[Captain Obvious]

7 hours ago, Jeff Berk said:

As usual, the FSM shows a mechanic holding the shaft in one hand while turning the wrench with the other. Similar to the directions on removing the rear suspension spindle pin by pulling it out with two fingers.

Yup. Easy peasy. Just like the spindle pin. Sounds like you just need stronger fingers. What could possibly go wrong... go wrong... go wrong...

Haha! Glad you got it out. 

[Jeff Berk]

CO:

Not that much can go wrong...go wrong...go wrong, usually what happens is that I uncover something related that I want to do while I'm at it.  

Like replacing the differential's rear gasket only to realize it's attached to the cross member behind it. I'm assuming that I can extract the studs using two bolts on each stud to grip them but I think I'll pass this time and see if my half shaft seals were the source of the leak first. If I keep going with "while I'm at it, I might as well..." I'll not have the Z back together by the time the snow melts.

Jeff

[Zed Head]

Nissan has the diff removal process shown in the Rear Axle chapter.  Kind of weird.  Many of us have tried to remove specific parts like you're doing, but the way they show is actually the easiest and quickest.  Drop the whole assembly as a unit.  The mustache bar provides handlebars for stability.  Once it's down you can remove the mustache bar to get the diff cover off.  You're not going to get those studs out so that you can slide the cover down.

You don't need to drop it to the ground either.  You can lower it just enough to get the mustache bar off.  For future reference.