Need some help with methods on how to torque down the the axle nut without causing the stub axle to bind against the drum assembly (making contact). When i tight to say 70 foot pounds of torque on the nut the stub axle and bearings spins freely without any binding but when im reaching up towards 100 or more, the outer stub axle with the sealed bearing will start touching metal to metal against the drum assembly and start to scrape when i spin the axle. Any steps im missing here? I tapped the inner bearing first to seat where it was suppose to and then tried to tighten the nut so the stub axle will naturally pull into the inner bearing but that just doesn't seem to work. What i was thinking is maybe the torque on the nut is just way to much? Any help will be great. 

Do you have the FSM?  Check out the 'Wheel Bearing, Oil Seal, and Rear Axel Shaft' section in the RA Rear Alex section of the manual.  You need to set the bearing preload per that section.  You may need to check which distance piece and hub you have also.

Thanks for reply and Yes i have referred to manual. When setting preload on the bearing how do go about doing that? Are the distance pieces different for driver or passenger side? Maybe thats what im missing. 

Just took apart the stub axle and the distance piece are both labeled B on it so looks like they are the same pieces.

The distance pieces were the same both sides and the hubs were stamped the same on my car. I do not know if they could be different.  I seem to remember a thread stating most were all the same and it is rare to see the other sizes.  I also do not remember which is the most common.

Torque is listed in Haynes manual as being 180 lb/ft up to 240lb/ft.  Then use a spring balance to a wheel lug and check the point where the the hub will rotate.  Should be between 25 and 30oz,

It it's binding at 100ft/lbs you have some problem.  Make sure every thing is assembled correctly  and check (measure) the length of the distance piece.  It could be worn allowing it to bind the bearings.  I have heard of them being shimmed to get the correct preload.

 

  On 2/7/2018 at 4:38 AM, fairladyz432 said:

when im reaching up towards 100 or more, the outer stub axle with the sealed bearing will start touching metal to metal against the drum assembly and start to scrape when i spin the axle.

Well that's not good. Can you actually see where it's making contact, or are you hearing something inside the housing where the bearings are?

yeah i can actually see it, the stub axle would rub against the housing assembly and scrape as i turn the axle by hand. it gets tougher and tougher to spin freely the more i torque down the axle nut.. which is very odd. I bought oem nissan bearings and pressed in the outer bearing correctly and pretty straight forward. The inner bearing is seated as far as it can and where it should be. Might think theres a need for shims or something or possibly buy a new distance piece. 

oh and do you guys know where the distance piece mark letter would be located? Don't see a letter B marked anywhere. 

  On 2/7/2018 at 8:11 PM, fairladyz432 said:

oh and do you guys know where the distance piece mark letter would be located? Don't see a letter B marked anywhere. 

You said you used the FSM.  It's in there, with a big picture.  Dimensions for the distance piece also.  It's all in there.  I'd measure it even if you find the letter.  Which bearing part numbers did you get?  Maybe you got the wrong bearings.  Did you compare old to new to see if they match?

It looks like Nissan went with high precision on that assembly.  The axle rides very close to the casting.  A short distance piece might allow the inner race to pull in at high torque.  If it did though, you might have damaged the races.  The torque is supposed to clamp the two inner races against the distance piece.  You're putting all of the load on the balls and races.

Just a maybe, did you put the outer bearing on the right way? The collar that sticks out goes toward the wheel flange.

Maybe the inner bearing is not seated straight? 

  On 2/7/2018 at 8:47 PM, zKars said:

Just a maybe, did you put the outer bearing on the right way? The collar that sticks out goes toward the wheel flange.

I was trying to figure out what that would do, earlier.  It would leave the outer outer (yes, double outer) race unseated, so maybe that allows the whole axle, flange, and distance piece assembly to move inward, without the outer race stopping it.  That could cause the rubbing.  That's the most hopeful cause, easy to fix.

Edit - That would leave the inner outer race unseated also.  So a hit with a heavy mallet on the inner flange should push the three parts back outward and relieve the rubbing.

Edited February 7, 20187 yr by Zed Head

  On 2/7/2018 at 8:23 PM, Zed Head said:

You said you used the FSM.  It's in there, with a big picture.  Dimensions for the distance piece also.  It's all in there.  I'd measure it even if you find the letter.  Which bearing part numbers did you get?  Maybe you got the wrong bearings.  Did you compare old to new to see if they match?

It looks like Nissan went with high precision on that assembly.  The axle rides very close to the casting.  A short distance piece might allow the inner race to pull in at high torque.  If it did though, you might have damaged the races.  The torque is supposed to clamp the two inner races against the distance piece.  You're putting all of the load on the balls and races.

Awesome ill take a look at the bearing housing and see if they match up with the distance piece and do some measurements of all the pieces. I will update this thread on the results.  thanks 

  On 2/7/2018 at 8:47 PM, zKars said:

Just a maybe, did you put the outer bearing on the right way? The collar that sticks out goes toward the wheel flange.

Maybe the inner bearing is not seated straight? 

Yes, the collar is facing toward the wheel flange of the stub axle and the seal is facing outward toward wheel. Seated all the way back. 

Edited February 7, 20187 yr by fairladyz432