Rear wheel bearing install issue

[240260280]

I am thinking bearing fitment as well.  The inside width of the two bearings and the width of the spacer sum to give the correct spacing of the outer flange from the inner flange.

If the outer bearing's inside width (left bearing below) is too narrow, the outer hub/flange will draw against the body of the strut.

 

 

 

 

[fairladyz432]

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

I was trying to figure out what that would do, earlier.  It would leave the outer outer (yes, double outer) race unseated, so maybe that allows the whole axle, flange, and distance piece assembly to move inward, without the outer race stopping it.  That could cause the rubbing.  That's the most hopeful cause, easy to fix.

Edit - That would leave the inner outer race unseated also.  So a hit with a heavy mallet on the inner flange should push the three parts back outward and relieve the rubbing.

Just a thought, the fsm says something about preload and adjust if necessary. Could i just possibly knock out the stub assembly (stub end ) back outwards with a  drift so the wheel flange will get pushed out a little so it won't scrape the bearing housing after torquing down the axle nut? 

[fairladyz432]

4 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

I am thinking bearing fitment as well.  The inside width of the two bearings and the width of the spacer sum to give the correct spacing of the outer flange from the inner flange.

If the outer bearing's inside width (left bearing below) is too narrow, the outer hub/flange will draw against the body of the strut.

 

 

 

 

Hoping that this is the case as thats an easy fix if it is. Thanks! 

[Captain Obvious]

Wow... Something is definitely screwy. So where is the rubbing occurring? Inboard or outboard side?  In other words... Inside where the stub axle bolts up, or outside where the wheel mounts? Are you double dog sure you got that outboard bearing (the one with the flange on the inner race) installed in the correct direction?

3 hours ago, fairladyz432 said:

Just a thought, the fsm says something about preload and adjust if necessary. Could i just possibly knock out the stub assembly (stub end ) back outwards with a  drift so the wheel flange will get pushed out a little so it won't scrape the bearing housing after torquing down the axle nut? 

The way to adjust the preload is by using a different length distance piece. When the whole thing is tightened up, there should be no axial play between any of the parts. If you can "knock out the stub assembly back outwards with a drift" then I second (or third?) the guess that the outboard bearing is in backwards.

[fairladyz432]

This is what i got so far.. the outer bearing is exact same size as the original one that was on the car. The rubbing is occurring on the outboard side i can hear it kinda scrap as i try to spin the stub axle. I also can see the outboard side flange slowly creep toward the bearing housing as I tighten the axle nut  and eventually rubs. 

[Patcon]

So roughly 52mm

[Captain Obvious]

Well those outer bearings are definitely installed correctly. It's normal for the flange to be drawn towards the backing plate as you tighten the nut, but it's not normal for it to be drawn in so far that it rubs against anything.

Are your housings crusty rusty? What are the chances that you have a big ol' rust blob built up on the outside lip of the housing that's getting in the way? I know... about zero percent chance, but other than that, without seeing the involved parts, I got no idea.

Can you take a pic of it together and highlight where the rubbing is occurring?

What year are you working on? From what I recall, the early years sometimes had a bronze washer installed on the stub shafts that was supposed to help "with noise", but nobody is really sure what it was supposed to do. I also believe that said washer was supposed to be installed on the inboard side, but the documentation is sketchy.

[HS30-H]

What model/market/build date is the particular car concerned?

[zKars]

How about that tin plate that's trapped against the flange by the wheel studs? Is it deformed around the circular raised center portion? It's a close fit in there, it's kind of a dust shield. Grasping at straws now, everything looks right. 

[Zed Head]

Can you tell if the outer race on the inside bearing was seated fully in the casting?  Like 246 said, a bearing fitment problem might be the cause.  The blue bearing on his illustration.  That outer race has to seated completely, otherwise the balls take all of the final torquing force.

Actually, it seems odd that one of the axles is still covered in grease where that bearing's inner race should have wiped it clean.  

[jwtaylor]

Does it do the same thing no matter which stub axle you try?  Is it just the photo, in post #17, above look like look like the axle on the left is bent - could  be a photo perspective problem - but looks off to me.

[Zed Head]

Food for thought, and discussion - when the nut is fully torqued to spec. it basically turns the axle, the distance piece and the two inner races in to one solid piece.  Like it was machined out of one solid piece of steel.  The outer races are just along for the ride, moved only by the force of the balls.  

It seems to me that the companion flange bearing's outer race is not seating, causing the inner race of the wheel side to pull in to try to meet the distance piece.  Already said this, just wanted it all in one post.

Also, a tape measure is not the proper tool for that measurement.