19 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I am thinking bearing fitment as well.  The inside width of the two bearings and the width of the spacer sum to give the correct spacing of the outer flange from the inner flange.

If the outer bearing's inside width (left bearing below) is too narrow, the outer hub/flange will draw against the body of the strut.

 

 

 

 

Hoping that this is the case as thats an easy fix if it is. Thanks! 

 

Im working on a 1975 280z coupe. Im beginning to think that the outer bearing isn't seated properly and needs to get hit in more with a drift all the way in. Im going to give it a try and take some pics of how it sits installed all together. From the looks of the diagram posted earlier it looks like the wheel flange sits all the way in towards the bearing housing and leaves no gap and shouldn't scrape if it is properly aligned/seated. 

This may be simpler image for seeing the loading faces.

If the outer flange (right) is hitting the body then the inside or  outside race on the outside bearing (green) is too narrow or the bearing is deformed.

 

A cocked/kocked/carked/caulked race will cause problems.

http://www.skf.com/binary/tcm:12-114679/140-710 BIMG 11_2012_tcm_12-114679.pdf

Edit - I didn't think that "****" would make it through.

Edit 2 - But, apparently, "cocked" will.

Edited February 8, 20187 yr by Zed Head

I do notice that there is a difference between the old bearing that fits fine and the new one that I installed. Clearly there’s a difference in thickness but not sure if that can make any difference? 

Is the bearing still inserted in the casting on the inside?  Check for a gap on the outer race, where it should be seated.

There are so many different, conflicting, opinions about what the problem could be that you're probably just going to have to learn the basics and figure it out your self.  That link  I provided is pretty educational.  If you focus on how the bearings work and what the purpose of the "distance piece" is, and think about how the balls ride in the races, it will probably click for you.

This caliper is cheap but works well.  I have one.  Take some measurements.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/performance-tool-4601/tools---equipment-16488/tools-17919/measuring-tools-16659/measuring-calipers-19579/caliper/w80152/4614478

These are the two measurements that need to be the same on both outside bearings.

The green has to be the same on both inside bearings.

 

10 hours ago, fairladyz432 said:

there’s a difference in thickness but not sure if that can make any difference

That difference in thickness doesn't make any difference with respect to the problem you're having. Just larger balls in one bearing. From an outside "user" standpoint, doesn't change any of the external geometry.

3 hours ago, 240260280 said:

These are the two measurements that need to be the same on both outside bearings.

Pedantic, I know, but ... Only the yellow needs to be the same measurement on the outside bearing. The ratio between race length and extended flange length won't affect the final location of the mating surfaces. As long as the total comes up to the same total width, the flange could be 90% of the width and a tiny thin "bearing" portion could make up the other 10%. The mating faces would still be in the correct locations. 

It would be the wrong bearing for the application. but it would "work".   Haha!   I'll tune the OCD down now.  

Sorry. CO you are right. I did not express it quite correctly.  Here is the point I was trying to make:

If the outside shell is stepped back, then the flange will draw in too far and bind. I mistakenly used outer race shell size rather than the step.

 

Edited February 9, 20187 yr by 240260280

Ok what I did was I removed the new outer bearing and put back the old bearing. Same results if I tighten too much. Is the rear bearing similar to say the front bearing where the tighter you torque the nut the harder it is to turn? Right now, I have the rear just torqued enough for smooth rotation. The nut looks to be locked in where the old axle nut would be originally. Any more tightening it will begin to lock up. Also, are you supposed to torque down the axle nut when the wheels are on it does that not matter? Thinking if this doesn’t work I have no other option but to bring it in to a shop for inspection. Did everything I could for something that should be bolt on and go in my eyes. 

14 minutes ago, fairladyz432 said:

Is the rear bearing similar to say the front bearing where the tighter you torque the nut the harder it is to turn?

Did everything I could for something that should be bolt on and go in my eyes. 

The front bearings and back bearings are completely different.  Shape, "races", cages, principle of how they work, how to adjust them, everything.  The main similarity is that they roll and need lubrication.

If the wheel rolls with weight on it you could probably drive slowly to a shop that knows.  Any auto shop should be fine.  There's nothing special about the Z bearing assemblies.

You could buy a new set of bearings and try again too.

Might have to just get a new set of oem bearings and give that a try. Is there a difference which side the wheel flange goes or are they made to fit both driver and passenger side ? Are they marked at all?