Thanks I’m looking for a ball bearing. Hopefully I don’t mangle the tab in my attempt. [fingers crossed]

The little pastic ball is inside the GROSE JET. It either restricts or allows flow and I believe it screws into the lid. Uncross your fingers it makes them easier to use.

Edited February 13, 20187 yr by esmit208
Additional

He's talking about a small ball under the float's tang to bend it down.  It looks like the ramp for Snake River rocket jump just like mine did. Float bowls were way to low of fuel that way, started sputtering going up a mountain. Rolled it backwards perpendicular with the street and let the bowls get full went another half mile and did it again.  Straight home and started to work on them. Now they're perfect, car runs better than ever.

1 hour ago, siteunseen said:

He's talking about a small ball under the float's tang to bend it down.  It looks like the ramp for Snake River rocket jump just like mine did. Float bowls were way to low of fuel that way, started sputtering going up a mountain. Rolled it backwards perpendicular with the street and let the bowls get full went another half mile and did it again.  Straight home and started to work on them. Now they're perfect, car runs better than ever.

Ok

On 13/2/2018 at 4:44 PM, siteunseen said:

He's talking about a small ball under the float's tang to bend it down.  It looks like the ramp for Snake River rocket jump just like mine did. Float bowls were way to low of fuel that way, started sputtering going up a mountain. Rolled it backwards perpendicular with the street and let the bowls get full went another half mile and did it again.  Straight home and started to work on them. Now they're perfect, car runs better than ever.

Come man. Its really difficult to get the .55 inch gap from the bottom of the lid to the top of the float without pressing the needle valve stem. Am i doing something wrong. The su carb dvd is for su carbs with gross jets not needle and valve. 2 hours trying to adjust without any success.

Edited February 17, 20187 yr by jalexquijano

Two hours isn't enough. It can be an all day job unless you're lucky and get them both right the first few tries.  I don't think that method is the most accurate anyway. If your tang adjustment is off by 1/32" it's going to be wrong. Make the smallest possible adjustments and test with sightglass or by seeing fuel levels in the nozzles each time.

Two hours? 

Took me two months!  That was after driving it with low float bowls for a year.  Never kept the motor fed properly.  Now it does after three different methods. 

First was eyeballing the float roof to the lid's underside, got in the ballpark.

Second was the clear tube matching the top of the conspicuous square on the side of the float chamber, got on base.

Third and final was using a marked clear glass jar and a fuel pump, scored!

 

On 2/11/2018 at 7:38 PM, siteunseen said:

The best thing to do is get them opening and closing right side up not upside down like the Just SUs DVD shows.

You are so right. I talked with Bruce at ZTherapy and he specifically told me that NOT UPSIDE DOWN ... regardless of what your version of "Just SUs" you have. (Mine is by the original owner. In VHS with a 1996 date!)

He said, as you do, to hold the lid and float assembly just as it is oriented when installed. That means RIGHT SIDE UP. Blow into the gas line and slowly raise the float. When the flow stops, that's what you need to measure. On/Off. The distance from the top to the top of the float should be 0.55 inches. But, he also said this is not rocket science, close is good enough until you really start fine tuning. (Living in a digital world it kind of hard to think of "good enough" working. At least I do.)

-Dann

On 2/17/2018 at 11:20 AM, siteunseen said:

Two hours? 

Took me two months!  That was after driving it with low float bowls for a year.  Never kept the motor fed properly.  Now it does after three different methods. 

First was eyeballing the float roof to the lid's underside, got in the ballpark.

Second was the clear tube matching the top of the conspicuous square on the side of the float chamber, got on base.

Third and final was using a marked clear glass jar and a fuel pump, scored!

 

Can you explain this rig?

4 hours ago, DannDZ said:

Can you explain this rig?

I will do my best Saturday morning  when I'm back home. It's on my laptop.

 

16 hours ago, DannDZ said:

Can you explain this rig?

I did this a year or two ago so things get fuzzy but here goes.

After much reading I took a small glass jar that my floats could move up and down without hitting the sides, made a mark 23mm down from the roof of the float chamber lid.

Then I hooked up a low pressure fuel pump, running out of a gas jug to the float lid bung.  Hooked the pump to a battery and after a few tries I got the float tangs bent just right so the valves shut off at the line.  23mm down from the roof.  It was the dead of winter and I had nothing else to do and after doing this my 240 runs better than ever.  Plenty of fuel where before they were starved.  I found this out going up a steep mountain one day and the car started running so poorly it wouldn't pull anymore.  I was running off the back carb only, 3 cylinders.  I rolled the car backwards and cut the steering wheel so it was perpendicular to the road.  The bowls filled up and I could go about another quarter mile up the mountain.  Took about three or four times to reach the top. 

Here's my setup.  Click on "siteunseen replied to a topic" and you'll see all the pictures.  If you need more info maybe can help, let me know.  Cliff

 

This is really time consuming. Isnt the sight glass after setting it to .55 ok?