20mm down is fine too.

20mm down from where? I guess the best method should be the plastic tube connected to the drain plugs with the engine at idle.

Edited October 14, 20195 yr by jalexquijano

On 10/12/2019 at 1:09 PM, siteunseen said:

I got the float tangs bent just right so the valves shut off at the line.  23mm down from the roof.

So, are you measuring from the lid to the "fuel." The distance of the float from the cap is less important? 23mm is about 0.9 inches, significantly larger than the commonly heard 0.55 inches.

How important is it to make sure that float is level when properly adjusted.

EDIT: I added photos of my rig. At this point, the valve has closed. I cannot blow past it. The final level was set using a syringe and adding water drop by drop.

-Dann

Edited October 18, 20195 yr by DannDZ
Added photos

My floats were never level after adjustment and they worked great.

If you can't blow any air in the fuel bung you should be good to go.  I was a little confused at first glance but now I see how much of a bigger glass you are using than my rig.

One thing though.  Could you post a picture of the float tang when you get a chance?  It looks like yours is bent up pretty far but it's hard to tell.  If you have time I would suggest bending them down so they're more horizontal then set the fuel levels.  To me it looks like you won't have a full float chamber the way they are now if that makes sense.

They should look closer to this one.  Disregard that red circle.

 

 

 

It looks like they are the opposite of what my floats were.  Instead of too high they seem to be bent down too far???

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Could you post a picture of the float tang when you get a chance?  It looks like yours is bent up pretty far but it's hard to tell.

Sure thing. I put a rule in the background and tried to minimize parallax. I think it looks pretty straight to me.

Are you measuring the distance from the fluid to lid? That makes sense.

Also, you mentioned the size of the glass, should the volume be closer to that of the carb bowl?

Thanks! 

That looks like new! 

I mearsured from the roof of the lid down 23mm and made my line on the small jar. Then when my fuel leveled out at that line I considered that right. Put it all back together and it runs better than ever. My clear pre fuel filter filter stays completely full now as before it was always filling itself at idle that I could watch in my garage. 

There's another popular way but I haven't tried it. I think it would be easy for you now that you have yours apart somewhat. Google "fuel level 10 turns down classiczcars.com". 

Here's the jar I used, figuratively. Close anyway.

You might take the opportunity now to, fuel resistant RTV, "glue" the cork gaskets to the lids.

I'm using my phone now but can try and clarify this post better Saturday. Waiting to be seated, patiently...

 

 

2 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Here's the jar I used, figuratively.

Looks like I need to go out and buy myself some dried beef! ?

Thanks for all your help. Have a great weekend.

@siteunseen Here is my current state. I purchased a "cylinder jar" for $3 at Hobby Lobby. The cover and float fit perfectly without any additional support. 

I measured 23mm down the jar and marked it with tape. I then set the level using a 3mm syringe, one drop at a time.

This the level of the water when I can no longer blow into the tube. The water is low and I need to bend the float tab to set it. But which way do I need to bend?

Thanks for helping with this. I hope we can make it easier for everyone.

Edited October 19, 20195 yr by DannDZ
Link to cylinder jar on the Hobby Lobby site.

25 minutes ago, DannDZ said:

@siteunseen Here is my current state. I purchased a "cylinder jar" for $3 at Hobby Lobby. The cover and float fit perfectly without any additional support. 

I measured 23mm down the jar and marked it with tape. I then set the level using a 3mm syringe, one drop at a time.

This the level of the water when I can no longer blow into the tube. The water is low and I need to bend the float tab to set it. But which way do I need to bend?

Thanks for helping with this. I hope we can make it easier for everyone.

This was my last fuel level using sight plastic hoses fastened to the drain holes of the carbs. Am i good?  I wish i could purchase the float sync tool but the guy that manufactures them is no longer interested in building more of them.

Edited October 19, 20195 yr by jalexquijano

2 hours ago, DannDZ said:

@siteunseen Here is my current state. I purchased a "cylinder jar" for $3 at Hobby Lobby. The cover and float fit perfectly without any additional support. 

I measured 23mm down the jar and marked it with tape. I then set the level using a 3mm syringe, one drop at a time.

This the level of the water when I can no longer blow into the tube. The water is low and I need to bend the float tab to set it. But which way do I need to bend?

Thanks for helping with this. I hope we can make it easier for everyone.

Bend the tab down slightly. That will close the valve later and allow more fluid to enter