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Runs rich, wont rev past 2-3k


240DL?

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4 minutes ago, 240DL? said:

It has black soot until it dies from running rich, then wet and smelling of gas 

so if you put a brand new plug in it, start it idle for 5 min it comes out black sooty and or wet? trying to find an order of magnitude beyond will not rev. also what plugs are you running?

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If you can clean plugs enough to start (using carb cleaner for example)  a properly tuned engine will usually clean them in a few minutes.

5 sets are more than enough to get going. 2 sets would be fine.  Just get some carb cleaner and gloves.  Do the work in fresh outside air and a cheap dollar store stainless steel bowl.

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well going thru them that fast, seems like the only things left can be the ECU or the Injectors, I don't know if the wrong injectors can release that much extra fuel.

Does unplugging the temp sensor bullet connectors in the wire harness make it die instantly from over rich? next try subbing a 100hm resistor (I hesitate to say short them together). The way that works is lower resistance should reduce injector on time. How does the fuel pressure reading look when you blip the throttle? should go up with blip, then jump way low as vacuum jumps with closed throttle,  I know you said 36 engine  off 29 idle,  would just like to hear what its doing with actual throttle use.

Edited by Dave WM
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Hmmm... you know the Thermo Time switch and the engine CTS  split into bullet connectors about 12" from the sensors. You can get the bullet connectors plugged in wrong. Then the Thermo Time switch is hooked into the CLT sensor pins on the ECU.  Car will run Pig Rich .

Edit: Oooops... already been covered. You may want to Triple check that. Posts #46 thru #48. Tricked me up on once my 1976 280Z and car ran Pig Rich.  

BTW,  picture in Post #48 is from my 1976 Federal model 280Z... after I sorted out the crossed Bullet connectors. 

 

Edited by Chickenman
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Nissan ZX turbo injectors are a purplish brown color, NA injectors a light green or light tan color.  The numbers don't mean much, it only identifies the design of the injector body plastic.  I think it's the same number for both.  Color is the key.

Unless they're some odd aftermarket injector, which tend to be black or bright green.

Edited by Zed Head
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and just to say it again, make very sure all the connectors to the sensors and AFM are clean and free of corrosion. Checking at the ECU pins should clear them, but then again due to the high impedance of a modern DMM, I suppose its possible to get a reading that would be different in a low impedance circuit, esp things like voltages.

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4 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Great idea Dave!

image.png

I do have the A11 600 000 for federal manual 1976 cars

And my injectors are green, so I would guess they are correct 

1 hour ago, Zed Head said:

Nissan ZX turbo injectors are a purplish brown color, NA injectors a light green or light tan color.  The numbers don't mean much, it only identifies the design of the injector body plastic.  I think it's the same number for both.  Color is the key.

Unless they're some odd aftermarket injector, which tend to be black or bright green.

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