wiring

[echocluster]

i have 1971 240. i have a burnt out fuse in the box. the connectors that hold the fuse is not there. can that fuse be my problem? Can anyone tell me what fuse is used with the driving lights? my headlights , brake, and signal lights work. i have it at the shop but they do not seem to know what they are doing. i dont know where elso to take it. it is at a nissan dealership, but they have not seen one of these in a long time. they dont even have a shop manual. any help would be great.

[echocluster]

maybe you guys dont know those questions. well then does anyone know where the wires travel along the car. i was going to put my own wire in, i took off the cover on the steering colom . with a light tester, i could only find a wire that got power when i turned on the lights. i could not find a wire that came on when i turned on the running lights. could it be the switch then?

[Bambikiller240]

Click on "Downloads" on the Home Page, then click on Z Car Technical Documents. We have Wiring Diagrams for various Z Cars available for you to download.

[echocluster]

yes i have seen those but it does not show where the wires go to the fuse box. when you turn the light switch to the first setting, does that not turn on the running lights? because on the next position the head lights come on. is there a separation like that or do the running lights come on at the sametime as the head lights?

[Mike]

echo, you are correct. The first click turns on the running lights. When you turn on the headlights (2nd click) running lights should stay on as well.

[Inf]

echocluster,

I had the same problem not too long ago, there are some threads with plenty of info and links. My fuse box also melted around one of the retention clips for the circuit with the running lights and taillights.

The fuse clips are not one solid piece of metal from front to back, there is a brass(?) piece on the back and the copper clip up front that are connected by rivet. Usually, these fuse boxes melt when the connectors become corroded, especially in between where the clips and rivets make contact. The 'rust' acts like a heating element and thats where it starts. It seems that as it gets worse, it starts to totally block the flow of current. When I would tap my fuse while the car was running (I do not recommend this, it was HOT) the lights would flicker on and off, presumably when some 'clean' areas made contact for brief moments. I eventually just found a new-ish fuse box and put it in, and things have been working fine since.

Once the box has been melted to the point that the connectors are not held in place by anything, I think it can get even worse since there is a newfound slack between the rivet/clips.

Although this may not be the problem you are having, it sounds like the exact same symptoms I was having. Unfortunately for me, this problem didn't manifest itself until I was getting it inspected at a dealership!

My recommendation is to just try to find a new one. If your 1971 requires a fuse box with the long pigtail (which I think yours will since the MSA catalog has them listed as 70-71) you will probably have to find one used since they are out of stock, and would have set you back a fair amount anyway. You should probably at least go over the actual connections between various components outside the fuse box as well. Getting a new fuse box would be wise anyway though since yours is already melted and can cause a lot of other problems.

You might want to try www.ZBarn.com . I emailed them and asked for a quote for a 72 fuse box and he told me they could get me a used one in decent shape for $45, but I got lucky and bought one from a board member for $5!

Andy Russel might be able to help you out, however he does not have it listed on his sample price list. His email address is z@datsundude.com . He should also be able to get you a new factory service manual for a good price since you don't seem to have one. They are extremely useful!

Hope this helps,

Andrew