Captain Obvious Posted March 2, 2018 Share #13 Posted March 2, 2018 Bummer. That's what happens when you torque the crank pulley nut down without having the key and damper all situated correctly before applying mucho force. The key is supposed to be able to rock in the slot and find it's proper "happy" location. But if you get it rocket too far before you start fitting parts together, it's possible to rock it backwards and get it cockked into a position where the force is normal (perpendicular) to the install direction, and as you found... You can crack the brittle damper. So I got a question.... Where is the chunk(s) of cast iron that snapped off the back of the damper? Is that stuff inside your front cover now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share #14 Posted March 2, 2018 Yeah Capt, I thought everything was lined up, for what I could see. Not sure how / what to do different with the new one. Kinda worried. 14 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said: The key is supposed to be able to rock in the slot I believe this is what gave me the trouble, too much movement. Even Tom Monroe in his how to rebuild your Datsun states you have to tap it in place for the key to seat into the keyway. I could pull mine out with a magnet, thats how loose it was. I should have stopped and pulled the damper back off when it started to get tight while bolting it in place. But I didn't and it cost me a perfectly fine damper. The cast piece that broke was still connected. When I pulled the damper back off to look at things it was attached but ready to break off. It just took the flick of a finger to break it the rest of the way. I admit that it was all my fault. I should paid better attention to what I was doing and really don't understand why I didn't. One of those, woulda, shoulda, coulda moments. I ASSumed it was going on ok and that's that. I've got a new balancer, oil slinger, woodruff key, and front seal coming. Everything is OE except for the balancer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted March 2, 2018 Share #15 Posted March 2, 2018 Well I know it won't make you feel that much better, but you're not the first one to do this. A local buddy of mine did the exact same thing to his pulley. Glad you didn't lose the chunk behind the front cover. That would have just added insult to injury. I've messed with lots of keys of various designs working on machinery in addition to cars. Most of them are snug (tight) enough that they don't fall out with gravity, or a magnet, but that's not always the case. I'm not sure a new key will be any tighter, but you'll find out when you get your replacement. So, to help make sure if doesn't happen again... First, put the pulley on with NO key, just to get a feel for how it goes on. You should be able to feel and hear it clank against the hard stop shoulder on the crank. Pinching the slinger and all that... I've heard some of the pulleys are so tight that you have to use the center bolt to actually jack the damper into place, and I'm not sure how I feel about that. Get a feel for how it SHOULD go on, and then make sure the key slips gracefully into the slot inside the damper. If the key won't go into the slot on the ID of the damper, then it'll rock out of position when you try to put the pulley into place. Just take it easy and remember, you're not the first! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share #16 Posted March 2, 2018 (edited) CO, thanks for the words of encouragement. Yeah, I'm going about it differently, that's for sure. Will post when I get the parts in and installed. Edited March 2, 2018 by rcb280z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share #17 Posted March 2, 2018 (edited) Decided to clean it up a little while I await the parts. Starting to look better. I can actually see my oil pump now. Edited March 2, 2018 by rcb280z 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tzagi1 Posted March 3, 2018 Share #18 Posted March 3, 2018 I had a similar problem with my cummins when I replaced the injection pump, the key tends to move (pushed back) when the sprocket is inserted, the solution was using some retaining fluid (locktite) let it dry a bit and install sprocket, worked like a charm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share #19 Posted March 4, 2018 Yeah I keep going back and forth on whether or not to use some sort of locktite. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted March 4, 2018 Share #20 Posted March 4, 2018 Wait and see if the new key is any tighter. You may not need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share #21 Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) That sounds logical. If needed which one do you recommend? Thanks. Edited March 4, 2018 by rcb280z Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted March 4, 2018 Share #22 Posted March 4, 2018 I'd go with blue Loctite. Someone may need to remove the key in the future. Out of curiosity, does the key way look OK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share #23 Posted March 4, 2018 Key way looks good. That's why I'm confused on why the woodruff key didn't fit tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Maras Posted March 4, 2018 Share #24 Posted March 4, 2018 Wrong key? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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