With the last pieces ( read bolts etc.) in house, I can now get serious with the rear suspension and differential..

First up, was the diff, with new seals and fresh oil, it´s ready to be put back in place.

The rear wheel bearing, spindle and seal where pressed in, dampers and springs back in place...

Progress is steady and I think by the end of this week it´s all done with.

Then I can turn my attention the the engine/gearbox... While working on the car, I discovered a leak between the bell housing and motor... I guess the main seal needs to be replaced, as for the seal in the bottom of the oil pump? I might replace the clutch, pressure plate and lighten the flywheel while I´m at it...?

When thats done, I can replace the entire exhaust system to a brand new stainless steel JDM twin pipe...:-)

Lifting the differential back in place was easily done by me alone and a jack-lift, the same for the shock absorber... the A-arm needed a bit more handling,before it where seated so the bolt could go through and the right side are almost done, by almost I need to replace the brake pipe, before moving on to the left side.

Beautiful work. I wish my car was that clean!

What kind of bushings are you using? Stock rubber style, or poly?

12 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Beautiful work. I wish my car was that clean!

What kind of bushings are you using? Stock rubber style, or poly?

Captain Obvious, Thank you... The car came that way, pretty tight in every way.... I decided to go with the poly´s I have used them on my other cars, and I think they do the job. 

that engine/bell housing leak may be the side seals as well. it will be obvious if you remove the flywheel.

I agree that the only way to tell is to remove the flywheel.

For all the posts about a main seal leak I wonder how many turn out to be a leak from the oil pan gasket.

Wind will push any oil leak towards the tranny so a quick check should include a "smell" test to determine if it is engine or gear oil followed by a tightening of the pan bolts if needed.

Wonderful work by the way, just great.

BTW you can do the side seal without pulling the trans. easy to do while the pan is off doing a pan gasket.  If you are doing a clutch you may was well do the rear main and while doing that you can see the side seal leakage if any.

Edited March 15, 20187 yr by Dave WM

@gnosez, @Diseazd, engine builders?

 

Two questions related to post #18.

Q1: What is a well tested sealant brand and type that you can recommend for sealing the back top corners of timing cover to the head, and for sealing the rear main bearing & side seals.

 

Q2: Any special way/locations for placing the sealant when doing the rear main (engine rebuild)?

 

Thanks

Edited March 15, 20187 yr by 240260280

 I put a dab of red RTV on those spots that are prone to leakage.

I used the same stuff sold for diff sealant. Oil resistant. did not use any on the main seal but I did grease it up (like the OE seal has pre applied grease on  the lip where it comes into contact with the crankshaft). I followed the FSM on the rear side seals for where to apply around the bearing block, and assembled quickly per  the "how to rebuild L series engine" book. The quick assy was suggested to prevent the sealant from setting up. I used the aftermarket side seals  with the separate pins that force the seals against the block. more sealant again where FSM suggest. So far not a hint of oil.

Edited March 15, 20187 yr by Dave WM

Thank you guys, for all in-puts...

I discovered the leak when the front was jacked up while working on the suspension, first impression was the main seal behind the flywheel? but it makes sense that it could be the oil-pan gasket? Which seal would be recommended, are there any updated ones (silicone etc.)?

 

if you see oil only in the very back of the pan, its prob the side seal/rear main, looks like the pan but its not. that being said I went with the MSA silicone racing gasket, although I doubt its needed, Just a the reg felpro rubberized cork would be fine. Make sure the pan gasket surface is flat and do not over tighten. 7ftlbs IIRC which is not much. You do not have to pull the motor to remove the pan, you just need to get the crankshaft turned so the front of the pan can get past the throw of #1 crank pin.