Need a rear bearing spacer!!!

[Matthew Abate]

Yes, I agree. And yes, zKars saved my arse again.

The last question I need to answer out of this mess is did torquing the nut to 181 pounds like the FSM says crush my brand new OEM bearings or was it the idiot who ground my spacer?

The shop insists the Chilton manual is correct at 28-32 pounds and pointed to the F-350 spec of 110 pounds as a supporting argument, but they also ground down a NLA part by hand, so...

 

 

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[Captain Obvious]

I wouldn't be so sure that the "gouged" area of the spacer is the only part they messed with. There are clearly grinding (looks like belt sander?) marks on the remainder of the face of that distance piece. I'm thinking they were shortening it and they slipped once causing that gouge. It looks to me like there's a heat-blued mark around the entire circumference, and I wouldn't be surprised if they took material off the entire face. They just took a lot more in one area than another.

And... The ends of that thing need to be SQUARE. You could have a small area of missing material, but the overall vast majority of that face needs to perpendicular to the center line through the cylinder.

You could check the length of that messed up piece with a micrometer to see if they shortened it. If it's a "B", it should be between 2.067 and 2.069 inches long. And if you get even more energetic, you could check it a couple different places to see if the end(s) are square.

However, all of that is academic if you are replacing it (and I think that's the right decision).

As for the torque of the stub axle nut, my guess is it's what crashed one of the Mars landers... A units problem. The torque spec in the FSM is 181-239 foot-pounds. But the spec is ALSO 25-33 kilogram-meters. My guess is that they (or Chilton's) screwed up the units.

Torque it till your eyes bug out. If the bearings are properly seated and the distance piece is the correct one for the strut housing, the bearings should see little to no load as a result of the high torque. If everything is in the right spot, those bearing balls are floating in the grooves of the races.

[Matthew Abate]

Yet another example of where I only half followed my father’s advice. I went with the lowest imperial measurement but did not check it against the lowest metric measurement. (Edit: no need, they are the same when converted).

 

I think my plan now is the freeze the spindle and warm the outer bearing to 120 degrees, press it on myself with my floor jack hacked together home made hydraulic press, then freeze the inner and do the same. Taking these parts to shops is only giving me grief.

 

 

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[Captain Obvious]

Well the offer still stands to bring them to my shop. My press will put them together at room temperature.

No oven, no freezer, no grief. 

[Zed Head]

Is the premise now that the inner race is not seating fully on the axle (not spindle, there's no spindle on the back end)?  Still having problems with the "new" replacement distance piece?

Not sure what's happening, or not happening, here.

[Matthew Abate]

Yeah, when everything was together it was shy of coming all the way through, so the flange was putting lateral load on the inner bearings when torqued. The shop wanted the spacer shorter to get the bearings closer together.

 

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[Zed Head]

No offense intended to you or your family members but I'd run that thing over to CO and let him have a look.  Sounds like you have an odd mismatch of dimensions or something is bent.  He did offer, and he does drive a train you know...

[Captain Obvious]

Haha! Well remember that I'm no expert!  I'm just a hack with a hydraulic press and a couple micrometers!   

Choo-Choo.

[Matthew Abate]

No offense intended to you or your family members but I'd run that thing over to CO and let him have a look.  Sounds like you have an odd mismatch of dimensions or something is bent.  He did offer, and he does drive a train you know...

None taken because that’s the plan, and also it was a shop that messed up.

[gundee]

 

On 3/22/2018 at 2:03 PM, zKars said:

Even though I can only read about 50% of the text on these threads anymore with the lovely ads that appear so graciously to assist me in retail decisions (which about now are 'buy nothing'), just let me know if you need a "B" spacer when the time comes.

I have never seen an "A" or "C" spacer, so you chances of needing a "B are really high. 

 

I actually have a pair of 'C' spacers.