Front end 280z to 240z style

[Jaymanbikes]

38 minutes ago, EuroDat said:

What did you do with the 280Z grill?

I went with the 240Z grill, but added two extra bars to it. Also removed the indicator supports.

I used the 240 grill with a 280 top bar, removed the 240 grill brackets, also made a center support that also pulls the grill back enough to clear the hood.  I plagiarized from HazMatt's thread, copied some of his brackets as well but didn't cut a section of the air dam off like he did.   As I recall his thread was 280Z "Rustoration"   I thought about removing the indicator supports but ended up not doing this.  

[Jaymanbikes]

2 hours ago, torynich said:

Looks great!

What did you do to fulfill all your questions at the beginning of the post?

I basically plagiarized from HazMatt's thread 280Z "Rustoration"  My brackets were similar but not exact because I didn't cut down my air dam like he did.  As I recall his was wavy on top so he removed that section.  Mine on the other hand was very straight.  

I purchased my Euro turn signals from JDM car parts, they are Expensive....

Grill was straight from HazMatts thread basically a Frankenstein grill from a 240 combined with parts from a 280.    Alternatively you can buy a $300 one from Skillard but I would have needed to hack it up to make way for the bumper brackets.  A friend gave me the 240 grill....

The most frustrating thing was trying to find paint prep instructions or some agreement on what is the best solution for urethane part prep.  I must have found 20 ways to do it, some contradicting the others.  I finally just did what I thought would work.  I've painted a number of bolt on parts and I wanted to do this as well. I already had the supplies so..... I trialed everything on a part of the air dam that wouldn't be seen and it worked great. 

Here is what worked for me if anyone cares to know.

1)Wash the part with a good quality car soap.

2) Scuff the part with Grey Scotchbrite and found some bad spots on the part. 

3) For the bad spots I used 400 dry and then water sanded everything with 500. 

4) Wash again

5) Used a plastic cleaner to wipe down.  I was told by some to NOT used Wax and Grease remover because the part could retain some of the solvents and then push them back our under the paint.   Some said use it....LOL  I used the product pictured below (Pas-Stick), questionable as to its effectiveness.  

6) 2 Coats of Bulldog paint adhesion promoter

7) Base Coat (2 cans)

8) Clear Coat.  (3/4 can)

I did everything with rattle cans.  I have been buying paint from PaintScratch.com, they have factory color matched paint in rattle cans or for your spray gun.  They also sell a catalyzed clear in a rattle can that is awesome.  Additionally since I live near the Ocean in Florida I had my garage dehumidifier going as well.  Temps were in the 80's and relatively low humidity for that day. 

 

 

Edited April 21, 2018 by Jaymanbikes

[EuroDat]

6 hours ago, Jaymanbikes said:

I used the 240 grill with a 280 top bar, removed the 240 grill brackets, also made a center support that also pulls the grill back enough to clear the hood.  I plagiarized from HazMatt's thread, copied some of his brackets as well but didn't cut a section of the air dam off like he did.   As I recall his thread was 280Z "Rustoration"   I thought about removing the indicator supports but ended up not doing this.  

Yer, Hazmat did a real neat job with his project. I played with a combination 240Z grill/280Z top bar after seeing it on his thread. I ended up going for another aproach and made special brackets for under the 280Z indicator mounts aftrr removing the 280Z indicator mounts.

 

[grannyknot]

On 3/31/2018 at 8:27 AM, Jaymanbikes said:

As we know this Xenon airdam will require bracing and I'm just looking for some ideas on the best way to go about that.

If you are still looking for a way to brace the Xenon this one cost me $50 and a couple of hours, Skillard's is very nice but not in my budget.