5 speed swap

[Zed Head]

7 minutes ago, CRS said:

is there a ball and spring on the fork in the picture? I know the other selector rods have them. This looks like a pin with threads to hold it in place.

I remember trying to figure out that puzzle when I took a 5 speed apart.  I wasn't rebuilding, just tearing a broken one down.  I think that I used a long drift through that opening in the case.  There might have been some channel-locks involved also to squeeze the pin out.  It's wedge-shaped on the end, like the lock bolt for the spindle pin.  Apparently, it's supposed to be easy to get out.

[CRS]

Thanks. That makes sense. It will just need more force when I remove. I was worried about breaking it the first time. 

[Zed Head]

Just remembered also that I placed something under the fork, inside the case, before hitting it with the drift.  I think that was the hardest part, getting it supported.

Edited April 8, 2018 by Zed Head

[CRS]

Right, I had something under it yesterday but I just didn't hit the pin hard enough. Hopefully this will keep the arm from bending. 

[CRS]

Success. Had to hit the pin several times to break the tapper. Though it might break but it came out.

Now I can replace the o-ring on the rod and the seal the rod slides into. I think this was the worse leak in the top.

[David F]

Good job...I could not get that pin out and did not have the hole in my case to use a drift.   My input shaft is noisy while in neutral with clutch engage, so eventually I will send to trans specialist and get a full rebuild..including the shift rod seals.

 

[Dave WM]

yep that pin was tricky, did what ZH said, use the reverse lockout opening to access. Hard to say if its worth it to remove the brass bush. I did try to find the long one. there is ONE suppler that had it, I cant recall. It was a bit pricy like 20 plus 9 more for delivery to the east coast. You also have to be careful to line up the opening in it with the oil channel. If the input shaft of the drive shaft feels good (no slop) I would think its fine. Don't worry about that reverse gear idler, you will not notice it in use. If you look at the spacing of the brass rings and how much gap there is left when pushed up tight on the cone, you can get a ruff idea on the condition. The right way to do it would of be to disassemble it and look for wear (should have visable grooves and the brass should firmly grasp the cone). But prob the best thing to do would be fix the leaks, replace the front counter shaft and call it done.  IF you assemble it and have some issues then pull it for a complete rebuild. I know it sounds logical to rebuild before installing but my bet is if the gears look good and only a little metal was found tin the magnet then its likely going to be fine. One word of caution on replacing the front counter shaft bearing. Use the heat the bear and go for a drop on fit, you will Ideally you can support the back side of the counter shaft and use a press to push on the inner race to seat it. If you resort to banging in on with a hammer (like village land shows IIRC) just be prepared to tap the counter shaft back forward. You will know its right by observing the gear mesh. The counter shaft moves pretty easy in the main bearing on the adapter plate. even light tapping will move it around. I think this is why the shims are so important on the front of the counter shaft bearing (don't lose that by the way, it tends to stick to the inside of the input shaft housing). I presume the CS wants to push forward due to the cut of the gears, the shim limits this forward movement to locate precisely the gears.

Edited April 9, 2018 by Dave WM

[CRS]

1 hour ago, Dave WM said:

yep that pin was tricky, did what ZH said, use the reverse lockout opening to access. Hard to say if its worth it to remove the brass bush. I did try to find the long one. there is ONE suppler that had it, I cant recall. It was a bit pricy like 20 plus 9 more for delivery to the east coast. You also have to be careful to line up the opening in it with the oil channel. If the input shaft of the drive shaft feels good (no slop) I would think its fine. Don't worry about that reverse gear idler, you will not notice it in use. If you look at the spacing of the brass rings and how much gap there is left when pushed up tight on the cone, you can get a ruff idea on the condition. The right way to do it would of be to disassemble it and look for wear (should have visable grooves and the brass should firmly grasp the cone). But prob the best thing to do would be fix the leaks, replace the front counter shaft and call it done.  IF you assemble it and have some issues then pull it for a complete rebuild. I know it sounds logical to rebuild before installing but my bet is if the gears look good and only a little metal was found tin the magnet then its likely going to be fine. One word of caution on replacing the front counter shaft bearing. Use the heat the bear and go for a drop on fit, you will Ideally you can support the back side of the counter shaft and use a press to push on the inner race to seat it. If you resort to banging in on with a hammer (like village land shows IIRC) just be prepared to tap the counter shaft back forward. You will know its right by observing the gear mesh. The counter shaft moves pretty easy in the main bearing on the adapter plate. even light tapping will move it around. I think this is why the shims are so important on the front of the counter shaft bearing (don't lose that by the way, it tends to stick to the inside of the input shaft housing). I presume the CS wants to push forward due to the cut of the gears, the shim limits this forward movement to locate precisely the gears.

 

Edited April 9, 2018 by CRS

[CRS]

Right, had to go through the opening in the case to drive the pin out.  I think I will just leave the reverse gear as is, not worth the effort.

I think I found the correct brass for the tail shaft housing. It just looks worn, can't recall how much play.

I'll look at the counter shaft bearing. I recall the shim at the front of the housing. It fell down once I pulled the cover off.

[Dave WM]

this is the one

https://sales.omegamachine.com/Nissan_FS5W71C_Extension_Housing_Bushing_p/71411.htm

 

[CRS]

Thanks. The one from the link doesn't match the style I have. I have 2 holes were this one only has one. The spiral groove seems to be the same.

I rotated and rocked the bearings and they seem to be in good shape. Will probably just stay with them.

I may just install the new seals, o-rings, etc and see how it goes.

I plan on installing a new clutch kit, slave cylinder, hose and flywheel while there.

 

[Dave WM]

that's prob the best bet. On mine the OE fly was in good shape, I just scuffed it up with some sandpaper. I did not see any signs of chatter or scoring. I tried to get a new 225mm flywheel but did not have one at the local autoparts place. Make sure you pressure plate fits (bolt pattern) before you get under the car and find out its not right.

Edited April 9, 2018 by Dave WM