23 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

 

No,

 

Some have  have a second "mini carburettor"  that feeds air and gas directly into the manifold in parallel with the main throats... very over kill.

 

Most just pump the pedal for a few squirts of raw gas from the accelerator circuit before cranking in cold weather.

So there’s a chance; I pull that choke off the system that it might actually start without the help of starter fluid? ?

Yes.  Just remove the choke cable from the carbs and ensure the lever on the top of the carbs is all the way off to prevent any choke circuit leaking into the manifold.

 

You may enjoy this page:

http://240260280.com/Tech/Carbs/Weber/DCOE Theory Operation and Tuning.html

 

 

 

@240260280 many thanks sir. I will attempt that when I can free up. Best lead I’ve got since owning it. 

Obviously, I’d still want this little thing to be looked over by a pro. Any recommendations are still much appreciated. 

Bring it down to ZCON in October. @240260280will be there.  

I'm currently in Oregon.  Sometimes I work in Long Island and NJ area.  I'll update you if there.

That’s awesome. What a small world. My workshop is in oceanside. Welcome to come by anytime. Would gladly give you a tour of the facility and have some drinks and have you tell me if this red thing is worth the restore Lim planning   need a seasoned pro’s advice 

Looks great from the photos and the value of these Z's is continually rising; so that is two items in its favour!

Edited April 11, 20186 yr by 240260280

Yessir. I saw what BaT auctions been going for. This is more a car that i wanted to sort out and at its best present to my father when he is retired. It’s the one car he’s always wanted but never got to own cause he had three sons to raise. 

 

Fonrtunate enough to be able to have gotten most of my dream cars. I’ve got to make sure I get him his, yea 

6 hours ago, jdmfairlady21 said:

the shiny new stainless steel line is the “choke” that the previous owner did. But upon further inspection, it’s literally routed with the throttle cable, so you pull the choke and it will pedal the throttle and vice versus ? 

It wouldn't be a "choke" then, it would be a fast idle mechanism.  So what 246 said makes sense and is the classic way of starting an old car that has a carb with an accelerator pump.  Which, apparently, the Webers do.  Pump the pedal a few times to get some raw gas in to the manifold, let it sit for 10-20 seconds to get some vapor, then try to start it.  If it starts you might have to keep working the throttle pedal to richen up the mixture, since, apparently, there is no true "choke".  Once it catches and keeps running, the fast idle cable will hold the throttle open for you.

Most old 50s ,60s, and 70s cars work that way.  But they have a true choke which richens the mixture by choking the upstream side of the venturi creating lower pressure to pull more fuel from the bowls.  They also have bimetal strip controlled fast idle systems on the throttle mechanism.

The old cars have some pretty cool mechanical methods to do what the electronics do today.

I see ! Learning some serious stuff here with you gents. 

I guess what is throwing us off is the fact that once I do have the car fired up and idling, it idles at above 2500rpms and when you throttle it just dies and shuts off, and when you are throttling the pedal, the so called “choke” cable moves along with the throttle as if you are pushing and pulling off of each other, If that made sense. 

Yes, it makes sense.  The choke cable interferes with the  arms on the linkage when they swing down.  

It is a poor implementation. As mentioned above, just remove the cable completely.