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240z wiper linkage to motor detail?


GIchiro

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The photo below will show you the correct assembly order and up/down orientation for the linkage parts (sorry, but I don't have the name of the original poster so can't provide credit).  To assemble, just start stacking the parts on the crank arm spindle, working from right to left.

S30 Wiper Linkage - Motor Crank Arm fasteners.jpg

FWIW, I did a lot of experimenting with this assembly last year to see if I could discover the purpose of the spring and the eccentric bushing.  My conclusion is that the eccentric bush is there provide some compliance in the linkage (so that the long connector arms don't bow or get over-pulled), while the spring is supposed function an anti-slop device (which it might if the tang wasn't broken off -- which it almost always is).  I concluded that the spring has nothing to do with the 'auto-rise' function (which was just Nissan's way of saying the the wiper motor parks the blades a bit higher than their lowest wiping-mode sweep point).

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A few cautions:

The circlip that secures the centre linkage on the motor shaft might be a bit tired.  Replace it if you're in doubt.

The centre linkage is supposed to be covered by a dustboot.  In most cases, the OE dustboot has disintegrated and will probably by MIA.  Steve (nix240) offers a nice replacement piece.  Your chances of finding an OE Nissan dustboot are slim to nil.

As has been pointed out by many others, the primary culprit for slow Z wipers can be found in the bushings provided for the left and right-side wiper arm drive spindles.  The original grease coagulates into something that has zero lubricating properties and, instead, creates a lot of binding between the bushing and spindle shaft.  Clean everything out and repack with a modern, synthetic grease.  Some say that this simple step makes the need for the Honda wiper motor upgrade unnecessary.

It's possible to put the crank arm back on the motor output shaft so that it's 180 degrees off.  You can't tell which way is right unless you mark the arm and the end of the motor shaft before you disassemble.  If you get it wrong when you reassemble, the wiper blades will sweep down rather than up, ruining the paint on your cowl panel.  To protect yourself from this calamity, don't install the wiper arms until you're sure you've reassembled things correctly.  To check without risk, just put a clothes peg or even just a piece of masking tape on the end of one of the wiper blade spindles to simulate the wiper arm. Then watch which way things move when you turn the wipers on.

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Thank you so much. Yes, I cleaned the bronze bushings well. I also bought felt washers and soaked in swepco 80-90 lube. They move well now. Thank you for the crank arm tip. I will do the clothes pin clip test first. I sure appreciate it.

GI

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10 hours ago, Namerow said:

Clean everything out and repack with a modern, synthetic grease.  Some say that this simple step makes the need for the Honda wiper motor upgrade unnecessary.

Very true, did the Honda motor on the first Z without fully understanding the linkage, 2nd Z I cleaned all joints/spindles and the original motor is more than adequate.

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6 hours ago, GIchiro said:

Thank you so much. Yes, I cleaned the bronze bushings well. I also bought felt washers and soaked in swepco 80-90 lube. They move well now. Thank you for the crank arm tip. I will do the clothes pin clip test first. I sure appreciate it.

GI

hmmm...  You mention buying new felt washers (a good idea) in the same sentence where you talk about cleaning the bronze bushings (also a good idea).  However, the bushings with the felt washers are not the ones that bind up.  Instead, it's the bushings inside the cast-aluminum mounting blocks that locate immediately underneath the base of each wiper arm.  These are the bushings that really count when it comes to freeing up the overall system.

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