240z sump install.

[Nick0227]

Question.

Sent my tank in to get a cleaning and reseal and now im adding a sump & baffles and things are just getting out of hand because I’m not familiar with what to delete and keep regarding lines from the tank.

240z tank 280zx turbo swap.

With the new sump do I tell him to delete the factory lines from the tank ?

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[Zed Head]

There must be a sketch somewhere of the new tank design.  People don't just start cutting and welding without at least a simple sketch.  Do they?

[Nick0227]

There must be a sketch somewhere of the new tank design.  People don't just start cutting and welding without at least a simple sketch.  Do they?

He’s done this before so no sketch for me I guess.
I was pretty excited but I also started to think if I should let him start deleting lines before asking around so I’m searching the good old internet doing a little more research.
I totally jumped in without looking first on this move [emoji19]


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[Zed Head]

People often run in to problems when they start deleting stuff the factory installed.  Even the emissions lines have the benefit of containing the smell of gasoline.  I'd try to get them all back to where they were, unless it's a race car.

[grannyknot]

You might want to leave all of them and find out as you reassemble which ones you need, the rest can be plugged before you install the tank. t  Also, just wondering how your guy managed to get the two piece shell apart without cutting any metal on the seam?

[Patcon]

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

You might want to leave all of them and find out as you reassemble which ones you need, the rest can be plugged before you install the tank. t  Also, just wondering how your guy managed to get the two piece shell apart without cutting any metal on the seam?

I agree, I wouldn't delete anything. The old pickup is probably redundant but you may end up wanting all the vapor points. You also need to be careful you have a known, functioning way to allow air to enter the tank not leave. If you run the tank with too much vacuum it will collapse. Not an issue with carbs at 3 psi but with EFI with high pressure it can happen. I suspect that is one reason the later tanks are much thicker.

It looks like he cut the tank just about the tank flange

[grannyknot]

9 hours ago, Patcon said:

It looks like he cut the tank just about the tank flange

Yes you're right, that's exactly what he did then placed it back on top and stitched it together, thanks.

[Namerow]

Anyone care to comment on the safety precautions needed before cutting or welding a gas tank ? Have the tank 'boiled out' by a rad shop?  Fill with water?  Wait for __ months to let the fuel vapors diminish?

Just curious.

[Mark Maras]

 Dry Ice is the answer. At my previous job they removed our underground gas tanks. After pumping out residual fuel they dug around with a track hoe, pulled them to the surface and started dumping dry ice into the access holes . Probably about 20 Gals. of dry ice in each tank. The crew waited until there was CO2 vapor coming from the hole in the top of the tank. Then, to my total surprise, one of the crew stepped up to the end of the tank with an oxy-acetylene torch and started cutting up the tank into manageable pieces. As I peeked around the end of the building I was shocked that there was no explosion. Later on I talked to the crew. They said they've never had a problem using dry ice.

[Namerow]

OK, so who wants to try this out first?     Pictures too, please.

[Mark Maras]

 Honestly, if I was going to do it, I'd rinse the tank with lacquer thinner first, allow the lacquer thinner to totally evaporate and then use dry ice.

[grannyknot]

That's a terrific  idea, I guess you could also take the hose from your Mig tank Co2/Ar and purge the oxygen that way too. Block off all the ports except one at the top to make sure the tank is filled with inert gas before cutting.