Where to go with this rusthole

[Elliott000]

Which one is more of a screw around to deal with. First hood has surface rust as pictured and I hammered a dent out of the front it's straighter than the other but, surface rust pitting, can I just metal prep and epoxy then forget about it?

 

Second hood, substantial front nose and corner damage but zero rust on the surface no pitting seems to have some twist. At some point someone got excited with a puller....

 

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[wheee!]

Just buy Jim’s hood...

[grannyknot]

Of those two hoods I guess I would go with rust pitted hood, a twisted hood is no fun to straighten. Those pits are deep so you really can't get too aggressive with a wire wheel, grinder or sander, there's a real possibility of popping through to the other side.  Soda blasting would get the rust out of the deepest pits or you could make a dam around the worst area with plasticine, playdough or modeling clay and fill it with Evaporust.

[zKars]

The old 73 contributes to yet another friend in need. All is right with the world. At least the one I care about.

Edited December 12, 2018 by zKars

[Patcon]

1 hour ago, grannyknot said:

Of those two hoods I guess I would go with rust pitted hood, a twisted hood is no fun to straighten. Those pits are deep so you really can't get too aggressive with a wire wheel, grinder or sander, there's a real possibility of popping through to the other side.  Soda blasting would get the rust out of the deepest pits or you could make a dam around the worst area with plasticine, playdough or modeling clay and fill it with Evaporust.

I think I agree. It's much harder to make a crooked hood straight. If the rust is bad enough I might actually weld in a patch, but you would have to be really careful and keep the heat low.

[Elliott000]

Zkars..... Mission? , I have a beauty chunk of sheet metal there to patch should it get there. But I agree I'd rather not sut the hoods up.

I cleaned the patchy hood off and the only spot of concern is that one I pictured earlier. Rest of it seems fine, ill hit it with treatment before priming.

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[Elliott000]

Got the drivers rocker in and all the work behind it complete. Drilling spot welds on the upper frame is a pain! Will be even more so when i have to pop the one off the repair chunk. Found some secret rott under the a pillar section of the upper frame.foing to have to tidy that up and por 15 the inside before fitting the replacement. The biggest pain is welding/cutting in around thos oval air ducts just behind the rad support. My passenger side job wasn't the prettiest, hopefully this side I'll find a way to make it tidier.

Any of u guys ever use this pro form epoxy primer?

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[grannyknot]

 I used that 2k primer on the 240z and it was excellent, went on smoothly with no hicups.  It has been about 2 1/2 years now since the car was painted and no problems.

[Elliott000]

Couldn't have asked for better fenders man, grannyknot I was reading some more on the pro form stuff, says to do 1:1:1/2 reducer for sealer. Is that right? Just thin it out for sealing purpose vs primer I guess. Doesn't make sense to me haha

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[grannyknot]

Those look like they are in perfect cond.? I bet you're thinking about changing the colour of the car now to match the fenders.

I can't remember off hand what the ratios are but you should only follow the directions that Proform gives you, if in doubt contact them. Make sure you get all fresh product, new reducer and harder not some stuff you may have left on the shelf that you want to use up, new mixing containers and stir sticks.  I can't remember, are you going to paint yourself or just doing the prep.?

[Elliott000]

I'll be spraying epoxy and hi build myself but my buddys going to spray color in his booth whenever that time comes.. Thanks, I might goto local jobber shop for paint. Km's guy said they don't move alot of this stuff, that or ill order in a fresh batch from em.

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[Patcon]

Be careful spraying epoxy! Good respirator! You don't want any isocyanate exposure.