Where to go with this rusthole

[Elliott000]

Got some of the last major items for the build, now it's shop time and assembly really. Unfortunately the master cylinder was missed on packaging but I emailed him. Hopefully it can get sent out soon. Everything else I have in boxes stock.... Hopefully there's no issues with the oe harness when that time comes. Should be golden

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

[Patcon]

Aaaahhh Christmas!

My wax & grease remover is definitely not water based. Solvent based and flashes off as quick as lacquer thinner.

[Elliott000]

Aaaahhh Christmas!
My wax & grease remover is definitely not water based. Solvent based and flashes off as quick as lacquer thinner.

That's what i thought and what I want. I read people using water something. Including the acid treatment. Is this something I have to go so far as to do considering freshly stripped metal? I was thinking surface pad about 80 grit or so to set the metal up, wax/grease remover blast with air and wipe with tack cloth and spray epoxy

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

[wheee!]

So jelly. I wish I could get a good deal on new seat foams. Shipping is the killer putting the delivered set around $550 Cdn...

[Patcon]

If you don't use an acid prep first , then yes I would do something similar.

What does the P sheet for the epoxy want? 80 grit seems pretty course before epoxy. It sticks good, so I wouldn't worry so much about mechanical bond. I wouldn't blow the car down with compressed air unless you have a good drying system. The wax & grease remover dries really fast on it's own.

Never mind, I found it.

Quoted from the P sheet

1. Wash area thoroughly with soap and water to remove contaminates that solvent based cleaners cannot remove effectively. All substrates must be degreased and sanded. All rust must be removed
2. Clean repair area with 13520 Wax & Grease Remover. Clean fibreglass surfaces with 19040
Plastic Parts Cleaner. Wipe dry while the surface is still wet.
3. Sand bare metal area with 80-180 grit abrasive. Sand old finishes with 320-400 grit dry by hand or machine, or
600 grit wet. Re-clean area with 13520 Wax & Grease Remover.
4. Prime aluminum substrates within 8 hours. Prime carbon steel immediately after cleaning.

I don't know how you can remove all the rust. There seems to always be a spot that is mostly gone but not fully. That is why I phosphoric those areas. Which can muck your epoxy.

But how do you wash the car down and not make new flash rust?

I think I would go with the 180 grit over the 80 grit. Deeper scratches just make more work for you.

[Elliott000]

So jelly. I wish I could get a good deal on new seat foams. Shipping is the killer putting the delivered set around $550 Cdn...

Luckily I'm close to the border! 45 minutes of driving gets me to my po box, cheat a little on the numbers and no tax . Try zstore tho. They have free shipping CHRISTMAS code! See if they will Honor us Canadians

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

[Elliott000]

Patcon, exactly my thoughts. I think ill just use good ol high flash solvents! I feel if I spray/wipe the car down and dry it with water based cleaners even some little dribble or drip will cause a headache? Maybe I'm being too paranoid

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

[Patcon]

We were pretty careful on Cody's goon and I still had paint failures from rust. So I have gotten a little more paranoid! I hate rust!!

[grannyknot]

Whoa, Santa was good to you, water based cleaners are great but meant to be used in a warm shop but you can still get good results with W&G remover and then methyl hydrate(wood alcohol)

These pics are part of a long term project I'm playing with but they illustrate really clearly how much crap is on metal and why it is so easy to have problems with primer and paint.  This a sheet of 20ga metal straight from the warehouse,  the same square of metal was cleaned  3 times with that same cleaner until the cloth was coming away clean before moving on to the next cleaner, these pics are just the 1st wipe of 3.  The cleaner used is listed under the pic.

W&G remover

Water based cleaner,

Methyl Hydrate

Sanded with 80 grit then W&G remover

Water based cleaner

Methyl Hydrate

So you can see each one removes stuff the others can not remove.  Methyl Hydrate flashes off the fastest of all of them that's why I always leave it as the last one before priming.

[Elliott000]

Wow eh lots of crud there thanks for the pictorial!

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

[Elliott000]

I've been banging away on dents and my drivers door.its the worst panel I terms of dents aside from the quarter I cut off. I've hammered out a pot of the bad stuff but now I find my self pushing the odd dent out and having to beat it back down. I also have some oil canning below the handle. Any opinions? I feel a little more beating and ill have it straight enough to fill with nothing deeper than 3/16 and inch or so. I'm not looking for perfection but a little better would be good just dont kbiw what to hit from here.... How do I add a video? YouTube then post it here or is there a direct way.

 

Vid...

 

 

I wanna get this door skin good because it has zero rust aside from a dime sized patch I gotta do. Will a little heat sharing treatment do me good on the oilcanning

 

Sent from my SM-N950W using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

[Patcon]

This guy is a little strange but his technique is really good. Look through some of his videos. I couldn't find #1 so this is the link for #3

Enjoy