Where to go with this rusthole

[Elliott000]

That's what i figured too, gives it the rigidity. I'll make er happen as per stock and drill whatever size holes I need when the time comes

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[Elliott000]

Hey guys, couple questions on the motor. Pulled the exhaust manifold because one of the drpnt holes is pooched so im goin to asses if it's repairable or needs helicoil. Noticed front driverside engine has a hole on the block, un threaded, whats it for? Also a rear one threaded looks like it goes into the water jacket. Is that a coolant hookup when it in car?

Thanks guys

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[jonbill]

The left one is for the crank case ventilation pipe (although it looks small in that photo? ) and the one on the right is the block coolant drain. It should be just plugged in normal use. (although I have see one with a secondary electric pump extracting from there)

 

 

[Namerow]

Re the snapped-off manifold fastener:  You're looking at a steel fastener stuck in an aluminum head.  The dissimilar-metal corrosion along the threads can be really difficult to break free.  If you lead off by trying to get it out with a screw extractor, do not use a cheap one and do not get too aggressive.  It's a lot easier to drill out the fastener for a helicoil if it doesn't have a snapped-off screw extractor stuck inside it.

Some people swear by the use of a reverse-twist drill bit.  Might be worth a try... if you can find a place nearby that sells them.

Using heat from a bottle torch is a problem.  Too much flame spread, not enough focused heat.  An oxy-acetylene torch with a fine-tip flame might work, if you've got one. 

One heating option that probably will work (and makes it unnecessary to do any drilling) is to use a MIG to progressively build up an extension onto the top of the fastener (looks like you need at least 1/4" build-up here).  Once you get it above the surface of the head, you should be able to tack a nut onto the welded-up extension.  With all of the heating shock from the MIG work, you'll should then be able to twist out the fastener with a wrench.  Notice that I used the word, 'should'.

[Captain Obvious]

Is it just me, or does anyone else see disco balls when they see this pic? 

[Captain Obvious]

Or Death Stars?

[Elliott000]

you guys are awesome. I honestly hadn't even thought of a busted stud there just a buggered hole. I'll pull the intake and get the gasket out the way. Have a good look at er. I have an oxy acetylene torch so we're good there.

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[Elliott000]

Been awhile, I installed my subframe connectors. I have to fill a couple holes on the floor still. Then I can focus on quarters and inner fenders. Once those inner are done I can finally paint the bottom and get it off the rotisserie. Factory sway bar connectors are a no go now. I'll look into the ones that come with plates for the lower diff bracket. Any ideas on decent brands or kits for front and rear matched bars?

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[grannyknot]

Futofab has a nice set, the rear swaybar is rear mounted behind the Diff.

https://www.futofab.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=28&Itemid=86

[Patcon]

I did some searching on this a while back. I have a sway bar thread. I settled on the ST sway bars. I think they are the cleanest mounting system with good reviews.

[wheee!]

And as I noted in my thread, the stock 280Z bars do NOT fit in an opposite installation. They are front of diff mount only as they are too long and overreach the rear control arm. Aftermarket antisways are the only rear of diff mounted option. Sigh

[Elliott000]

Finally. There's a crappy gap up near the door handle. This is due to the repairs made before I got the car and full new quarter was installed. Nothing I can do to fix it with my quarter. I think I'll weld on a small piece of rod the the door edge and straighten the gap.

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