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Where to go with this rusthole


Elliott000

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On 11/12/2018 at 8:18 PM, Elliott000 said:

She was an early 260. Im hoping/assuming they are the same on that outer bulkhead area haha

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yes they are the same part. I checked out the part numbers on the microfiche..........64150-n4501 (dpending on year and LH/RH side).... 240s and 260s use the same. The inner guards aren't the same however....

Why am I researching? .... Because of this....20181119_125320.jpg. I20181119_125316.jpgs it too far gone? Should I junk the car?

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My first thought when I got my car home was dammit. Toasted haha, but I'm happy I chose otherwise. I had to rebuild the whole front frame rails, the uppers we are talking about I was prepared to hand make and had started but scored on these. How's the lower/main frames on your car? Hardest part is them. Floors and those rails are pretty straight forward but re installing the tension rod mounts was a measure 8 times weld once deal

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This is my third Z. Last one I did was back in Australia in 2002 (im now in Toronto) and I thought it was really rusty then. I was blown away when i saw this one. Luckily I bought it so I have something to do. I will make a metal brake and buy a bead roller. Not concerned about the simple shaped stuff, or the stuff I can buy....But I am really concerned about the inner fenders. The less patch work the better, Ill stick it on a jig and rotisserie.... and install big pieces of metal where possible.

Step one...acid dip and prime..... then reconsider. (I am now on the hunt for a front cut (260 or preferably a 240)

Just not sure how far gone is too far.  

What do you mean by 'lower/main frames'?

 

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Referencing the main front rails that the motor mount/crossmember/suspension bolts too. Yours may be fine but mine were trash. It's funny some of these cars can be solid in places others are wrecked. Either way. If you can acid dip that's awesome and i think you'll be fine.

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Also, more important. I've been starting at this inner fender for over and hour trying to figure out how to button it up and I'm getting choked. Maybe I shoulda spent the 500 bucks.... What to do. I don't care how or looks I just want the road grime to stay out until I cut for flares after inspection. Just tack a piece in and around and load the gaps with seam sealer? I don't even want to tack it to the quarter panel because I feel like a tack in the middle of the panel is gunna make a bump ill have to deal with more bondo later20181121_132322.jpeg20181121_132309.jpeg1542835576652.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Elliott000 said:

Any thoughts on how to shrink/tighten this dent up? Rear quarter dent, id like it improved for when I tie the patch in20181121_112856.jpeg

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I am having a hard time telling what I'm looking at. I would hammer & dolly it the best I could, then shrink what ever areas needed it. A propane torch and a wet rag or a shrinking disc and a wet rag. It doesn't have to get that warm to work.

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36 minutes ago, Elliott000 said:

sorry, cars upside down. skin with rivets/lower is the quarter panel. Other piece is the inner wheel house. Im not concerned about the inner just the quarter straightness

Ok, got it. I would still go at it the same way. Look for places where the metal got stretched and shrink those. If you over shrink an area you can dolly it to stretch back out a little.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Team! I found mint fenders and buckets off a guy in Calgary, front valance pieces too.... Going to organize ajippi9when he's home Wednesday but here's a pic of em on the car. Same condition just parted his ride out. All steel no nonsense. Gunna cost a few bucks for the set but it's the best ill get I rekon! I'm getting a hood tomorrow locally because turns out mine has a pretty good twist to it and the nose is buggered hard to tell in pic but somebody went to town with a stud puller and shes rough on a few axis's. Almost there in terms of being able to dry fit all parts and spray epoxy! Screenshot_20181210-135552_Photos.jpeg20181210_133535.jpeg

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