Discussion on idea for "air horn" fix

[Elliott000]

Hey guys, so I posted originally about these in my rusthole thread. Ive found these pictures today and want some z enthusiast responses before I decide my route. I was going to do my best to re create the air horns that go over the wheels but it WILL suck. This guys has cut them off and sheeted it in which add rigidity in the vertical load plane but will it cause weakness that one should consider in the lateral plane?

 

This would be the easy way out, And yes I understand these are the fresh ait vents on this year of car but   Im not picky about it either way. windows down will be drafty enough.

 

Thoughts

 

[Patcon]

That's a really bad idea! They are much stronger as tube type assemblies. If it was that easy to make it right, the factory wouldn't have gone to all the trouble in the first place. Always remember, car manufacturers are notoriously cheap. The don't install "extra" or "unnecessary" parts

[Elliott000]

I agree, that's why I wanted to discuss it here. I was thinking if I flattened it and added some form of angularity maybe it would or could be better. I already cut some templates to trace and cut the upper steel. Since im no pro level tin basher, I was thinking I might not be able repeat the same round contour but I do have the ability to box it.

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[grannyknot]

You really do need a box structure in that area, plate won't do the job. Building a complete boxed arch like that is pretty high level fabrication but if you don't care what it looks like under the fender you could build it in bite size sections adding each one on to the other and the inner fender at the same time. It might not be pretty but it will work.  With that kind of rot your car may have already sagged a bit, I would support the car under the sub frame only taking cross directional measurements as you go.

[Elliott000]

That might help make sense of a measurement between strut towers. On the manual it says I can't remember now but my width is 1/4" smaller than factory spec where as the dimensions down at the bottom where the crossmember bolts up are bang on. Should I attempt to spread this to stock figures while I'm at it? Not sure how I would balance out the spread. Car is currently level, i could plumb bob down once I finish the lower frame and make it right I suppose. Similar to when I had to fabricate the axle swap in my truck.... Patience and lots of measurements

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[Patcon]

If you don't spread it the hood will probably not fit. The engine bay sides are bowing in from the car being on the rotisserie. Get it off the rotisserie and recheck it. I would block it up without using the front of the car. If you have to spread it you check measurements diagonally to say the hood latch to make sure it's square. Did you find the FSM diagram with the dimensions in MM?

[Elliott000]

I have the measurements listed in the FSM. yesterday when I started on the engine bay frame rails I took it off the rotisserie. It now sits supported at the rear bumper and right where the subframe ties to the floor so that I could cut out the front rails unimpeded. Essentially the engine bay section at tis time is free hanging.

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[Patcon]

4 minutes ago, Elliott000 said:

I have the measurements listed in the FSM. yesterday when I started on the engine bay frame rails I took it off the rotisserie. It now sits supported at the rear bumper and right where the subframe ties to the floor so that I could cut out the front rails unimpeded. Essentially the engine bay section at tis time is free hanging.

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Good! If your measurements are still off, then you will need to spread it before you weld it up. Be careful to not pour the heat to it as you weld or you may get some unintended results. Try to replicate the factory dimensions as close as you can.

[Elliott000]

Thanks guys I appreciate all the help. I'd hate to get this thing together in a year or two and the friggin hood won't go on!

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[rturbo 930]

If I were you, I'd make a wood buck in the shape of the air horn, and then get some sheet metal and start hammering it over. Learn how to shrink and stretch. Could be a fun learning experience.

[Elliott000]

Wheres the best spot on the car to consider it "level and true" I want to have it flat for measurements. See attached pics for my thoughts. That bump in the firewall? Shes straight accross, i was thinking the panel under the cowl as its not dented of buggered or the upper windshield line. I just want the car level before I start shooting elevations with these lower frames rails

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[Patcon]

How about leveling with the doors sills, front to back and left to right, then back check with these other areas you picked out

Don't use the seams in doors. Get some small blocks to level off of and use a long straight edge to span across.