Hey Guys, read through this post and rather create a new post, I thought I'd add to it ... I have a similar, issue but it's the Left Hand Brake lights (upper and lower lights) not functioning.  I do have a couple anomalies that I've found during my trouble shooting of the issue:

1. The Turn Signal switch (LH or RH lights) do not function unless the engine is actually started. 
   • Is this normal?
2. On the Combo Switch, when I turn the switch to position 1, headlights function, position 2, no difference
   • What is the difference between position's 1 & 2?

Hazard Lights - Functional

Reverse Lights - Functional

Head Lights and Markers - Functional

License Plate Lights - Functional

 

Thanks!

Nick

'72 240z

1. The issue with the lack of a brake light on the left side is still a turn signal switch issue.

2. The turn signals require the key to be in the ON position.

3. The headlights should not come on in the first position of the headlight switch. Only the parking lights should come on in the first position. The headlights should come on in the second position. There might be some "creative" wiring by a previous owner.

Thanks for the reply SteveJ ...

So it looks like I have 3 issues to work through.

1. I'll pull the T/S off and see if some electrical contact cleaner will help

2. Not sure what's going on here.  With the key in the ON position and engine off, I get no signal flashing.  With the key in the On position and engine running, signal flashes - Sounds like another "creative" wiring issue

3. I'll need to address why there is no difference between the first and second position of the headlight switch.  I did install the head light upgrade harness (via www.datsun-240z-upgrades.net) I don't believe that upgrade would cause this issue but I'll reach out to Dave and ask.

Thanks!

Nick

Edited June 11, 20186 yr by nbenning

#1. The problem with the brake lights is most likely in the turn signal switch. The T/S switch makes and breaks the contact between the brake switch and brake lights when the turn signal is in use.

#2. Time to swap your T/S flasher to an EF32 electronic Flasher.  More consistent flashing from 9 to 15 volts.

#3. Sound's like the headlight combo switch needs service or the P.O. did some bad wiring. 

You can remove the column cover and use a jumper between the white/red and solid red wire on the headlight switch or from the green/white and green/blue to see if the headlights or Parking lights operate individually or together.

Also inspect for non-stock wiring done by the previous owner. 

Zs-ondabrain ... Thanks for the reply.

#1 So I disassembled the console and pulled the T/S switch assy as well as the Headlight assy this evening.  After removing the console assy, I was treated to some unidentified unconnected loose wires.  #1 & #2 coming from the ignition switch assy; #3 & #4 coming from the wire harness that goes to the T/S and Headlight assy connectors.  Any suggestions on those items?  I cleaned up the T/S assy switches and housing using QD CRC Electrical Contact spray.  Another issue I had before starting the LH brake light troubleshooting was that my indicator lever would never return to the off position after making a Left or Right turn.  After inspecting and cleaning the small spring tabs, I can see why.  The springs were seized and after a bit of cleaning they now move freely.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxXZrUZbgkk

After using the Electrical Contact spray, on the T/S switch assy, I'm sure the mechanically moving parts will need to be re-lubricated.  Any suggestions on a type of non-conductive lubrication spray?

#2 I purchased a new electronic flasher from O'Reilly's and replaced the flasher that was in the vehicle a couple months ago. Not sure it was an EF32 ... I'll check tomorrow.

#3 I cleaned the headlight combo switch using the Electrical Contact spray noted above.  Did not see anything abnormal with the switch assy.  I am going to bench test both switch assy's with a continuity tester to see if anything behaves out of ordinary.

Thanks in advance for any feedback! 

ignore 1, 2, 3 and 4. those are for the key in buzzer. they rarely work and most people unplug them anyways.

You can lube the spring loaded tabs with basic household oil... WD40, 20 weight oil, anything thin enough to work into the joints and not evaporate.

bench test, and possibly open the headlight switch CAREFULLY and check the spring loaded bullets, contact cleanliness and if you lube them, do it VERY Sparingly. like a small dab on the top of each plastic bullet.

 

 

Thanks again ... I'm glad I don't have a buzzer with the amount of time being under the dash over the last year ?

I appreciate the lube suggestions.  I've went through a quick continuity test per this posting on-line:

 https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

and found a couple anomalies with the LH & RH conditions.  Neutral, seemed to check out fine.  I'll double check my work this evening, though it's looking like I may have to disassemble the switch housing.

Thanks!

Ok, I spent the evening disassembling and cleaning the T/S switch.  I've been following the continuity testing outlined on this website page: 

https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

Either it's getting late and I'm losing focus or there are some errors in the continuity call outs.  I'm showing that the connections should read something like the attached figure ...

Please prove me incorrect!   Thanks!

@SteveJ

So the the saga continues ... 

Removed the Head Light switch and assembled the switch housing.  On my previous post I mentioned that why was experiencing no difference between the Parking Light position and Head Light position.  When I popped off the circuit board, I found out why.  As pictured, I'm missing one of the two "spring loaded nubs."  So there is a good chance the previous owner wired the headlights in a manner to bypass the parking light condition, thus my switch option is either Off or Headlights On.  Any suggestions on how to replace the missing "spring loaded nub?"

Replacing the spring loaded bullet will not fix your problem. You'll notice the little finger that holds the bullet in, is broken. You will need a whole nother swingarm.

Ahh ... thanks for the assessment Zs-ondabrain; Do you know where I can purchase another swingarm or the necessary components? Would I need to purchase an arm to strip the pieces for my swingarm assy?

Thanks!