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Where to go with unknown build ive acquired


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You should be able to measure bore and stroke from the bottom.  Might take some ingenuity, but the pistons are right there and you can turn the crankshaft.

Maybe that engine sticker is old and they didn't remove it.  I don't think that you can get to 3.0 liters with just a 0.762 mm overbore.  Which is what the sticker says, .030" = 0.762 mm.  And I'm not sure that you can bore the L24 up to the 89 mm you need just to get to 2.9 liters.

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Stroke is stock bore is hard to measure but the pistons have 1.000 stamped on top. I think im gunna just roll with it! No noise or anything. Pistons are flat top, if the clatters away at first start up in a couple yrs then I'll be damned and ill be forced into an early swap.... Now to focus on straightenin out the front end.

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If the stroke is stock L24 then you have a 2.4 liter engine.  Not stroked, not 3.0.  Not sure who Darcy is or why they are telling you it's a "stroker".  

If the valves were going to hit the cylinder walls they would have done so already.  You're probably fine.  L24 with N42 head.  Make sure that your exhaust manifold doesn't block the N42 ports.  

On the other hand though, since you have somebody telling you it's a "3.0 stroker" and it's obviously not, it could be just a bunch of parts thrown together.  Check the wipe pattern of the lobe on the rocker arm pads.  Check head bolt torques and other critical things, to be sure it's actually a ready-to-run engine.

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good info. Darcy is the guy i bought the car from. he was told it was a stroker and thats clearly wrong. Doesnt really bother me, I drove my buddys stock 240 with a somewhat tired 2.4 and it was a fun drive so im sure this will be aswell. The final game plan years down the road is an inline 6 turbo of some fashion. but again, that's probably a couple yrs after the cars driving.

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If the L24 is a stroker then the cankshaft will have a "V07" on one of the counter weights. Also the block normally has to be clearanced for the bid end rod bolts to clear. It probably won't be a 3.0 stroker unless they punched a big hole in it! I, like Zed head, don't know if you can punch an L24 that large. Most people start with L28 blocks to make stroker motors...

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Stroker, it's a term used when an e Hines stroke has been increased but the bore etc remains about the same, more displacement and generally a low end torque motor. More radical example. My bronco has a 351w block but it's stroked to a 408 cubic inch block so all perifrerals are 351w stock stuff it shes got some better bottom end jam.

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13 minutes ago, Elliott000 said:

Stroker, it's a term used when an e Hines stroke has been increased but the bore etc remains about the same, more displacement and generally a low end torque motor. More radical example. My bronco has a 351w block but it's stroked to a 408 cubic inch block so all perifrerals are 351w stock stuff it shes got some better bottom end jam.

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Strokers in Z motors are normally both increased bore and increased stroke. Almost everything above 2.9L is a stroker of some form. Cliff is just stirring the pot some. There are many variations on the Z stroker motor...

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  • 1 month later...

Hey again z peeps! Any thoughts on identifying a cam that's in an engine? Like is there a way for a regular dude to measure it. I been reading about the n42 head on an l24 with flat tops and while everything sounds awesome with nearly 10:1 Compression I hear about issues with detonation and having to run low advance. I'm just curious if since this engine has a different cam with a bit of overlap to help the issue. I sold that stage 4 its not for me plus I needed a bunch of other parts to go with it including springs pads etc. Any thoughts on cam measurement

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