gwri8 Posted May 10, 2018 Share #1 Posted May 10, 2018 I'm putting a 78' 280z back together for someone who completely disassembled it and put it in boxes some 5 years ago. I've never seen this car before but It's on a rotisserie and has been painted so really the hardest part is trying to find which part is in which box and figure out what is missing or needs replacement. The first problem I've run into is the fuel piping which was slightly deformed and bent from being off the car and moved around. When putting it on I noticed a "kink" in what I believe to be the Evaporation line near the fuel pump. I've used a compressor and air does blow through it but I'm wondering whether or not I should repair or replace it. Am I correct that it is an Evap line and Any suggestions as to repairing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted May 10, 2018 Share #2 Posted May 10, 2018 I think that may be the fuel return line . I believe all the evap lines go to the evap tank on the right rear of the car by filler tube. My opinion would be to replace the line. You are inviting future problem and it will be easy to do it now than later. Download the 1978 FSM and it will tell you everything you need to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8ferg Posted May 10, 2018 Share #3 Posted May 10, 2018 Download it from here: ? http://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted May 10, 2018 Share #4 Posted May 10, 2018 That is the vapor vent line. If it passes air, it's probably fine the way it is. But if you get energetic, you might just smoosh the outward bump back in a little. That might help open up the ID a tiny bit more. If it bugs you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwri8 Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share #5 Posted May 10, 2018 4 hours ago, Av8ferg said: Download the 1978 FSM and it will tell you everything you need to know. Thanks, I already have that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwri8 Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share #6 Posted May 10, 2018 1 hour ago, Captain Obvious said: That is the vapor vent line. If it passes air, it's probably fine the way it is. But if you get energetic, you might just smoosh the outward bump back in a little. That might help open up the ID a tiny bit more. If it bugs you. Evap, Vapor, same thing , right?? I meant well but It's been a crazy day. Thanks for the correction CO. The owner would rather not replace even though it looks to be a pretty good ding. I think he's tired of throwing money. I thought about the smoosh but before I put the jaws on it and test my strength I was thinking about just cutting and replacing the damaged section with fuel line. Since it's vapor it shouldn't have much pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted May 10, 2018 Share #7 Posted May 10, 2018 I am going to second CO's proposal, but without even the "smoosh" to make it more round. It's just a vapor line. It might even be the one with a check valve in it, and the check valve is probably the main constriction. Have you checked operation of that pump? If it's original, it's old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgsheen1 Posted May 10, 2018 Share #8 Posted May 10, 2018 1 hour ago, gwri8 said: I was thinking about just cutting and replacing the damaged section with fuel line. Ya. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwri8 Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share #9 Posted May 10, 2018 It does have the check valve, but it still bugs me a little. Believe it or not fuel pump actually looks better than when I found it in the box. I've done a lot of cleaning/refreshing of the visible parts because I hate to put dirty stuff back on to a car. The wiring harnesses have several amputations so Im not sure anything is going to work. And I Haven't even seen the engine yet. But as soon as I get a battery near it, I will check the pump. I'm told the car has sat like this for the last five or so years and I'm not sure as to what the owners final desire for it is, ie: sell or drive. The owner handed it off to one of his employees and told him to just get it done. I'm doing , repairing and replacing as I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zed Head Posted May 11, 2018 Share #10 Posted May 11, 2018 2 hours ago, gwri8 said: I was thinking about just cutting and replacing the damaged section with fuel line. Since it's vapor it shouldn't have much pressure. You have an odd form versus function dilemma. If function wins then leaving a smooshed steel line is best, I think. Better than a piece of rubber line with hose clamps, isn't it. If you're going for form, then you have to replace the whole thing or use flare fittings to connect the ends of a steel pipe patch piece. Can't see how rubber hose with hose clamps is better than any option. Just conversing. I used compression fittings on my EFI fuel line. That's an option also. Looks clean, and is solid. Doesn't require flaring tools. Got them from McMaster Carr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Obvious Posted May 11, 2018 Share #11 Posted May 11, 2018 3 hours ago, gwri8 said: Evap, Vapor, same thing , right?? I meant well but It's been a crazy day. Thanks for the correction CO. Yes, evap, vapor, CARB... All the same thing. I wasn't correcting you at all. "Evaporative emissions control system" is the official name in the FSM. You were closer to that than I was. It's all good! The evap system uses that goofy check valve-ish device between the tank and the carbon can. You can see that device hanging out in this pic, near the bottom: On the tank side of that check valve, there could be some pressure buildup (due to a purposely high "cracking pressure"). But on the carbon canister side, there should never be any measurable pressure in that line. Point is... If it passes air, you should be OK. Smoosh it a little, or just let it be. The LAST thing I would do is cut it and introduce more leak points in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwri8 Posted May 18, 2018 Author Share #12 Posted May 18, 2018 (edited) Well the fuel pump did not pass the test so a new one will be ordered. Now I've started to tackle the wiring harness. All of the running lights and headlights were cut off, sometimes just inches from the connectors.? Those are the easy ones. When I got to the engine harness, there had been a failed attempt at removing the blue female plug from the block to separate the engine harness from the cabin harness. The end result was, you guessed it, cut the wires. I can repair that but it would be easier if I could remove that plug. Is there a trick to get it out? I don't want to go Neanderthal one it like the last guy. Next would be the engine harness where it comes through the firewall. This is a late 78' automatic car and I've compared it to my spare manual 77' harness and there seem to be extra wires that have been chopped, both on the front side and back side of the firewall. Since me and Mr. Electricity are not the best of friends, any pointers as to what they may go to? Edited May 18, 2018 by gwri8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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