78 280 Re-Assembly

[SteveJ]

You'll need a pin removal (extractor) tool. However, I don't know which one you need for the round connectors.

Edit: This one gives you options: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-56500-Terminal-Tool/dp/B0009OR906

2d Edit: Just search for pin removal tool at Amazon under automotive. There are a lot of choices like this (https://www.amazon.com/ILamourCar【11PCS】Auto-Terminal-Electrical-Connector-Extractor/dp/B07B2P7D7L) and this (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075KLM6R9/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvpv2_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2708083022714283574)

Edited May 18, 2018 by SteveJ

[Captain Obvious]

Woof. Putting someone else's hacked harness back together. That is really a no fun position to be in.

So those cut wires up in the engine compartment I believe go to a couple automatic transmission specific devices. I believe the B/R and the B are supposed to go to the "downshift solenoid", and I believe the others (W/B and G) are supposed to go to the "inhibitor switch". Neither of those devices exist on the manual trans cars.

As for how to get that blue connector out of the white plastic housing.... Boy, are those things a biatch. I've taken a couple of those out, and it's a real PITA. There are little plastic tabs on the white housing that clip the connector shells into place. Four (at least) on each connector shell. You can see them on the empty holes. Thin tools inserted from the front to push the tabs out of the way enough to force the connector shell backwards out of the white plastic holder. PITA.

If you've got access to a parts car, I would say to just take a hacksaw to the old one to get all the connectors out, and then use a drill to eviscerate the connector shells on the other one to salvage the housing at the expense of the connectors. PITA.

I somehow managed to get a couple of mine out, and once they were out, I filed all the tabs down some so I could get them out again easier in the future if necessary. I'm hoping it's never necessary. I rebuild my engine bay harness, and in theory, I should never have to do that again.

[Zed Head]

I took one of those apart from a 78 parts car.  Can't remember the details exactly but a very thin pick might have been involved.  I think that I circled the locking mechanism in this picture.  It's not what you'd expect.  You need four thin jamming devices for each operation, if I recall.

[gwri8]

8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

So those cut wires up in the engine compartment I believe go to a couple automatic transmission specific devices. I believe the B/R and the B are supposed to go to the "downshift solenoid", and I believe the others (W/B and G) are supposed to go to the "inhibitor switch". Neither of those devices exist on the manual trans cars.

As for how to get that blue connector out of the white plastic housing.... Boy, are those things a biatch. I've taken a couple of those out, and it's a real PITA. There are little plastic tabs on the white housing that clip the connector shells into place. Four (at least) on each connector shell. You can see them on the empty holes. Thin tools inserted from the front to push the tabs out of the way enough to force the connector shell backwards out of the white plastic holder. PITA.

 

I think that's a good call CO.   I was suspecting something to to with an automatic but I've never experienced an auto Z before.  A new temporary wrinkle in my brain.  Since I don't have the engine or transmission just yet,  I'll bet/hope there are some cut wires dangling from it when it comes.  Looking at the harness and hacks out of the car was mind boggling.  The only way I could make sense of it was to mock it up in position for "hints".  Luckily, that solved a lot of mysteries but there are still a few left, wiring wise.

I was almost ready to attack the Blue connector with what you and ZH suggested but I left in the box instead, mainly because me and my graceful style would probably have done more damage to it.  There was just enough wire left on the backside to solder them back together.  Being on a rotisserie really made the job much more tolerable,  Just flip it on the side and sit on the ground in an upright position.

I discovered that the cut wires inside the cabin were selectively cut from the black connector, so that issue is resolved and repaired.  I'm still trying to reason why that happened.  Maybe there was beer and scissors involved during the teardown ?.  Must have been good time for somebody..........

[Captain Obvious]

Just keeps getting worse, doesn't it? If it weren't for the fact that you would have to find harnesses from a 78 with an automatic, I'd recommend just completely replacing the harnesses with something from a donor. But the uniqueness of the 78 combined with the fact that you're looking for an auto? I'm not sure you'd find what you're looking for.

If it's absolutely clear (like the cut wires with a stub close-by) where it should be reconnected to, then that's probably your best approach.

And speaking of which, I looked up that batch of wires here:

And I can't find a rhyme or reason as to why they were cut. They go to a whole bunch of unrelated systems, so I don't think there was a "functional" approach to the cutting.

One question though... I believe I have identified that batch of wires as going to the BLUE connector C-1, but you said they went to the black connector (which I believe is C-6). Is that your mistake, or mine?

[gwri8]

Welcome to my world!  There were actually 3 different problems within a 10" section of harness at both sides of the firewall.  (1) The Blue connector wiring pictured above in the cabin were all cut. I only showed the front of it earlier.   (2) The automatic transmission wiring you identified on the engine side, and then (3) the Black connector wiring in the cabin, the third picture in post #12..  Notice the black connector with only 4 wires feeding into it ( should be 8 ) with the other 4 unattached.  So neither of us is mistaken,  we're just in different stages of confusion.  My picture trail was not complete as I didn't show the back side of the Blue Connector which would have separated it more clearly from the other two visually.  Like Leslie Neilsen once said,  "I picked a bad time to quit sniffing glue" ?.

[Captain Obvious]

Gotcha. Well you're doing great so far on what could be a thankless job, and good luck with the rest of it.

PS - LOL. Steve McCroskey (Lloyd Bridges) really high up in the tower:

[gwri8]

Progress so far,  Heater box, Evaporator and ECU are in with the vacuum hoses connected. The Blower is waiting while I chase down a wiring hack.  Air vents, cowl drains, steering column  and relays are done. Found two hacks on the ignition wiring and a few more on the hazard and defog switches on the console harness. As soon as the control arms to get back from having the old linings pressed out, this thing will be on the ground.

[siteunseen]

Holy s hi t! What a job by the looks of those two pics.  

You can do it though!

Cliff

[Captain Obvious]

Keep up the good work.

Don't forget to hook up the condensate drain. (The black nipple to the left of the vacuum control switch).

Also, (if you haven't already) would be a really good idea to make sure the heater core and temperature control water cokk are in good shape before you put the dash in. You can get to that stuff after the dash is in, but it sure is a lottttttttttt easier with it out.

[gwri8]

2 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Also, (if you haven't already) would be a really good idea to make sure the heater core and temperature control water cokk are in good shape before you put the dash in. You can get to that stuff after the dash is in, but it sure is a lottttttttttt easier with it out.

Yes, I've been down that contortionist road before and I did give the water c oc k a once over and it looked ok.  The hose's showed no cracks.  Personally, I would replace them now but I think the owner is getting a little tired and hesitant about the usual old Z warnings I'm giving.  I've mentioned  the kaput fuel pump and a missing fuel neck but haven't gotten a response yet. I did get him to buy an RT mount,  all new urethane bushings, weather strip, and rubber stuff though.  All that stuff adds up quick and can be shocking to someone who hasn't seen it since it was stripped.  I do clean and/or repair stuff as I go so the parts that I have are thoroughly checked out before they go back on.   I've mentioned  the kaput fuel pump and a missing fuel neck but haven't gotten a response yet.  

The engine bay is further along than this pic, but it's looking pretty good.

One more question, since this is an automatic car, what goes in place of the clutch master cylinder hole next to the brake booster? Should I just plug

the hole with a grommet or something?

Edited May 27, 2018 by gwri8

[gwri8]

Things are progressing but delays are starting to appear with this car.  With all the parts stored in boxes for 5 years one would think they are all still there.  Well, I think mean ol' Mr. Time thinks different.  They weren't.  There are a couple that have gone missing and only enough it's when there are supposed to be two, there is only one.

Hence I'm searching for a rear Bearing spacer with a "B" stamp that looks like these.  I found these on Ebay but they have an "M" stamp on them

and I'm looking for a lower dash panel bracket for the Driver side that looks like this one from the passenger side.

I've gone through my stash, searched online and made a few calls but no luck so far.  I'm trying my luck here that someone has a parts car with these obscure jewels.

I appreciate any help (and PayPal).

Edited June 1, 2018 by gwri8