Restoration of "One-eighty-seven"

[drpchuynh]

Here are some updates. Rod addressed several large areas of rust before handing the car off to the body shop. The battery tray needed the most attention. The body shop will finesse the welding seams.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[drpchuynh]

Rod informed me that both doors sustained prior damages, with the driver side door pushed in so far that it bent "the bar". That would require removal of the skin to straighten it out properly. So we decided to replace the doors instead of repair.

That would be easy enough on most 240z but it turns out the early cars had their "bamper" located in a more forward position than midway on the glass. I'm calling it a bamper because that is how it's referred to in the manual.

Rod was able to source a set of doors (orange doors in pic) but those doors too had a lot of fillers. So we decided to grab the doors off of #1610 (blue car), hence you see the passenger doors go from silver to blue and the driver door is now free of fillers.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[drpchuynh]

Here's a diagram of the door showing the "bamper".

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[drpchuynh]

Here are other rust areas that were addressed around the base of the strut tower.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[drpchuynh]

Surprisingly, the back half of the car is relatively solid. No major damages as far as Rod can tell.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[drpchuynh]

The front end wasn't so lucky. So we're replacing the bumper, hood, both fenders, left "fiberglass" headlight bucket, cowl, grill, and front valance.

Luckily, no major damage to the front end. Radiator support are straight and true.

We plan on recycling the foam pads. Rod will place a layer of POR-15 before gluing them back on to prevent "rust-through".

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[drpchuynh]

Not certain why these images didn't upload correctly. Going to try it again.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[AZDatsun]

I would advise not to put the foam back on the underside of the valance I am not sure why it was there from the factor other than to create rust


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[inline6]

On 9/20/2020 at 2:22 PM, AZDatsun said:

I would advise not to put the foam back on the underside of the valance I am not sure why it was there from the factor other than to create rust


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The foam does have a function.  It is closed cell, so it does not absorb water.  Also, if you seal the edges after securing it to the panel, no water will get under it at all.  

It supports the panel over the large unsupported area which keeps if from vibrating or from moving if you happen to press down in that relatively large, flat, unsupported area.  

Also, put the new foam piece (or reuse old) in place before doing final body work on that panel.  It changes the final position of that flat area.

[inline6]

Regarding replacing the hood:  Early cars are known to have slightly different hoods.  You should try to save it if you can if you ever plan on selling the car.  Crazy Z people know about the different hood and will want it to be on the car vs. the later one.

Edited October 16, 2020 by inline6

[dprchuynh]

Thank you for the information, and for the restoration tip!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[240260280]

I would use a rubber sheet material rather than foam to be safe.