AlbatrossCafe Posted May 21, 2018 Share #1 Posted May 21, 2018 Hey guys, I'm wondering if there is something weird going on with my swaybar end links. I recently completed a total overhaul of suspension. I'm using TTT arms front rear, TTT tension rods, and Stance coilovers with camber plates all around. I got new sway bar end links & bushings from MSA as well. In the front, I'm having a difficult time fitting the end links into the swaybar. If I REALLY force it I can get it in there, but that seems wrong. I don't know if they should be under that much stress. It also seems like my suspension travel might be affected based on how freakin stiff these end links seem to be. Am I gonna break something by forcing the end links into the swaybar? These are the arms I have in front: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-lower-control-arms-240z-260z-280z The end link is already on the "inside" setting of control arm and the control arm is already set to as narrow track-width as possible. Check these pics. These are the Z at just a hair above stock ride height. The end links are still solid 1" away from the hole: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grannyknot Posted May 21, 2018 Share #2 Posted May 21, 2018 It kind of looks like you have the bottom nuts of the end links already tightened down in the LCA? If so, just back those nuts off so you have plenty of slack, fit the top of the end links to the sway bar and tighten equally on all 4 nuts. Does the TTT LCA offer any other holes for the end links? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zKars Posted May 21, 2018 Share #3 Posted May 21, 2018 I got tired of fighting this fight a long time ago. I keep a stock of longer cheap generic 5/16" or 3/8" hex bolts that completely solve all this struggle. Standard hardware store items. You just leave everything slack until you get the nuts started, then snug it all up. Also helps to have the control arms jacked up kinda horizontal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tooZ Posted May 21, 2018 Share #4 Posted May 21, 2018 I agree with everyone so far. I have had MSA bars on mine for years. Never had an issue once I got the connected. I have on occasion used my had hand clamps to pull Together to start the nut. You may want to roll the car back and forth to make sure to suspension has settled before tightening everything. Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbatrossCafe Posted May 21, 2018 Author Share #5 Posted May 21, 2018 12 hours ago, grannyknot said: It kind of looks like you have the bottom nuts of the end links already tightened down in the LCA? If so, just back those nuts off so you have plenty of slack, fit the top of the end links to the sway bar and tighten equally on all 4 nuts. Does the TTT LCA offer any other holes for the end links? Yeah, the bottom of the end link was tightened. I'll try loosening it and jacking up the LCA a bit on both sides to see if I can get it to seat. Good call. TTT has an inner & outer setting for the swaybar end link. Mine is already on the inner setting. I can't imagine who would use the outer one since my arm is already at the minimum track width allowed. 4 hours ago, zKars said: I got tired of fighting this fight a long time ago. I keep a stock of longer cheap generic 5/16" or 3/8" hex bolts that completely solve all this struggle. Standard hardware store items. You just leave everything slack until you get the nuts started, then snug it all up. Also helps to have the control arms jacked up kinda horizontal. Haha interesting... you mean you use a hex bolt instead of the end link? Got a pic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundee Posted May 22, 2018 Share #6 Posted May 22, 2018 Rubber bushings or poly? That set up looks like big suspension bind to me. Run it for awhile not hooked up. May feel better without swaybar. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cbuczesk Posted May 22, 2018 Share #7 Posted May 22, 2018 It seems like you have a lot of binding with that sway bar. I use an aftermarket bar and it pivots easily in the bushings so there's no issue connecting the end links. Maybe you can use a C clamp or something to pull the sway bar closer. Chuck 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbatrossCafe Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share #8 Posted May 22, 2018 I got these urethane bushings: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20h03/23-4132 With these end links: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20h03/23-4336 The bushings are pretty stiff. I'd hate to have an end link snap on me or something. Unfortunately I can't work on my car for about 10 days or so (lol) so I won't be able to get a result for you guys for a while. My plan in 10 days is to connect them and test droop levels to make sure the swaybar isn't limiting anything. I bet if I lower my coilovers in front another 3/4" or so like I was planning it will help as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroDat Posted May 22, 2018 Share #9 Posted May 22, 2018 Its all been mentioned, but from the photo it looks like your lower control arm is not horizontal and pointing downwards. That will effect the angle of the link bolt and point it towords the wheel and away from the swaybar eye. The swaybar is flexable to a certain degree to absorb all the in and outwards movements caused when the lower control arms go through their radius. You will find it easier to fit if you adjust your coilover until the lower control arms are horizontal. Make sure the link bolt is not too tight so you can manouver it through the swaybar eye. Btw. Your set up looks neat.? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted May 22, 2018 Share #10 Posted May 22, 2018 Assuming you get the sway bar bushing end bolt to fit, remember that you now have lots of suspension setting options (ride height, toe, camber, caster) you didn't have with the stock set-up. You should include corner balancing to your checklist and don't forget to loosen the end links and then once you're happy with the balance and while the car is still on the scales, tighten the an end link until you see a weight transfer. Back off until it returns to whatever it was before and repeat for the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlbatrossCafe Posted May 22, 2018 Author Share #11 Posted May 22, 2018 Thanks for the advice all. I will give everything a shot. Never even knew that "corner balance" was a thing haha. Interestingly enough I found a picture of the stock end-link at what I assume is with the car jacked up (full droop). This is why I got replacements lol. But even here you can see the (worn out) bushings are almost completely compressed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundee Posted May 22, 2018 Share #12 Posted May 22, 2018 I would want to set the coilovers to the height I want first. Then get camber and castor set to good handling specs. Search for some recommended settings. I would want to add some additional camber and castor over stock settings. Drive awhile to get suspension set. Then try to install swaybar. In the meantime get that swaybar off the car and detail it! ☺️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now