Just what the Doctor ordered. 1977 280z

[Zed Head]

On 6/9/2018 at 4:33 PM, grannyknot said:

 

 

I thought that the harness on the top came directly from the Passat.  That's what my comment was about.  Looks like a straight swap, six in one shot.

 

p.s. what is that red piece of garden hose doing connected to your AAR?  Holy moley...

[Captain Obvious]

That pic threw me at first as well. But if you blow it up to full size and look carefully just to the right of injector connector #3, you can see the cut ends of the wires from the rear bank of three. The way they are laying in the pic makes it look like it's a full harness of six (as it was intended), but it's actually two smaller harnesses of three injectors each.

And as for the AAR, that's probably red 5/8 heater hose. The original hose turned to rock and crumbled to dust, so they replaced it with some heater hose of similar size. Not that I've ever done such a thing....  

[Zed Head]

I see it now.  Looks like it was made to be spliced together to make a six pack.  

I forgot that heater hose used to come in red.  I'm using heater hose for my valve cover PCV port.  Living dangerous with no flame arrester.

[grannyknot]

I did something really stupid today, it was working fine and I should have left it alone. So I snapped the rusted nuts off the rusted studs holding the EGR assembly to the intake manifold. Some how I have to get the EGR spacer off on the studs, get the corroded studs out of the aluminum manifold without destroying everything

 

[Patcon]

I do not envy you on that taste. They don't appear to be separate pieces of metal anymore... ?

[madkaw]

BFH time! 

PB  blaster needs to get to the threads somehow. Maybe wirebrush and some tapping with a hammer will loosen enough to get some penetrant in there 

[madkaw]

Or just cut it in half and slide it off - cut off wheel!

[240260280]

I can send the blocking plate from Blue.  It has no EGR.  I can get one from the z Barn if you need one.

Use propane torch to heat the aluminum. Repeat a few heat cycles with Liquid Wrench cooling.  A few taps on the top of the bolt helps break corrosion and works the solvent through.

[Dave WM]

that is exactly why I popped for the bolt buster induction heater. With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond. I am going to be fighting a broken bolt (front bolt that holds the FI metal hard lines in place) that happened before the bolt buster. Got a mig welder now so will try it out.

Edited June 26, 2018 by Dave WM

[Captain Obvious]

3 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I did something really stupid today, it was working fine and I should have left it alone.

Sounds like my Sunday... Or was that Monday? Probably both!      You ever seen the problem solving flow-chart?

Good luck with the project. I don't remember... Do the stud holes go all the way through to the underside, or are they blind in from the top? If they're all the way through, you could potentially get some penetrant onto the threads from the underside.

[grannyknot]

Thanks guys, some good suggestions, spent a couple of hours on it today, BFH, heated multiple times with Map gas, cooled with wd40, little more BFH ,rinse repeat, so far it is not very impressed with my efforts. I'll keep it up for a few more days.

20 hours ago, 240260280 said:

I can send the blocking plate from Blue.  It has no EGR.  I can get one from the z Barn if you need one.

Phillip, that would be great, would appreciate that.

21 hours ago, madkaw said:

Or just cut it in half and slide it off - cut off wheel!

I may get to that yet.

21 hours ago, Dave WM said:

With out that I would try welding a nut on with a mig welder, that should get it hot enough break the corrosion bond.

This is the next step if the heating/cooling doesn't work.

 

20 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

. Do the stud holes go all the way through to the underside, or are they blind in from the top?

Blind from the top.  I may just wait until I can pull the intake manifold and get easy access to both sides.

Started working on the tail lights, the chromed bezels are pretty trashed but he plastic base is solid. I tried a test using Duplicolor Chrome rattle can paint, well it is not going to fool anyone but it is presentable I think. Anyone have other ideas?  Plastic chrome plating is awfully expensive for such a small part but I'm open to ideas.

[Captain Obvious]

Do you think the plastic would hold up to powder coat temps? @wheee! had some pretty impressive results with the chrome powder coat.

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50908-1976-280z-restoration-project/?page=66&tab=comments#comment-535792

And for the outer black portion... I was messing with one of them today as well. Not as impressed with the results as I had hoped, but I have two more things to try tomorrow. If I'm lucky, I may have a good option for you then?