valve stem seals

[Dave WM]

My car burns what I think is too much oil, about 1Q every 500 or so miles. I notice some smoke when starting up but quickly clears up. I do a LOT of short trips, low speed stuff, which I have read may cause issues for an engine that likes to rev like the L series. There are no external leaks and no internal (crank case oil looks good, no milky looking stuff at all, no oil film in rad). I did replace the PCV valve on the assumption that if it was clogged crankcase pressure could rise and cause problems. The compression looks good (160-165 on all with a cold engine) but I know that only means the compression rings are ok and could still be stuck or broken oil control rings.

So I figure its got to be rings or valve stem seals(at least from what I can tell, could be all the time since I am the only one driving it, so kinda hard to check while on the road), I am hoping its just the stem seals. The plugs look fine but for some black build up on the threaded ends (the insulator looks normal, very light tan) but not oil fouled looking at all. I am guessing that the 500 mile burning of 1qt is not excessive enough to really mess up the plugs.

I got the KD tool that compresses the springs on the head, a seal puller plier that grips the seal and bought some Nissan seals PN 13207-2B500, interesting they are made in USA, expected Japan. The plan is to remove all plugs, use compressed air to hold valves up (have a leak down tester) do one valve at a time after setting piston to TDC on combustion stroke. Will put the car in gear with brake on to avoid the engine possibly turning over from the compressed air. One at a time to avoid mixing up rockers/pads/springs.

The seals have a brown rubber seal and a metal shell on the body. I don't know if they are the same as the orig, a PN that is NLA but they were listed as a sub.

Further reading on the subject suggest NOT using assy lube but rather just reg engine oil and a install tool that slips over the stem to get the seal past the keep notches. I plan to get some heat shrink for that tool.

I found a video showing the process that was very helpful, only thing I plan to do different is using the compressed air vs shoving a rope tightly into the spark plug hole.

I hope to find seals that are less than perfect but will not know until I get in there, anyway seems like 43years is certainly long enough to warrant replacement of a rubber part anyway.

Any tips/warnings are welcome.

 

 

 

Edited June 6, 2018 by Dave WM

[S30Driver]

You have the KD spring compressor which makes it easy.  The valves next to the cam towers are awkward to get the compressor positioned right, but it works.   Hopefully your valves all seal well to make your compressed air do the job, always used the rope myself.   You will likely find the old seals are distorted and possibly oval instead of round.

Remember to cover the valley of death area where the timing chain / front cover is with a shop towel or similar to prevent dropping something down there,  making for a much longer job.

Good luck & hope it reduces the oil consumption...

[Dave WM]

roger on covering around the timing chain, I will most likely drape the entire engine area just to make sure I don't end up dropping a keep down around the manifold area as well. So the Rope is a tried and tested method, perhaps I will go that way, I can see how its pretty much fool proof.

[Chickenman]

Also known as " The Pit of despair " 

[JSM]

Hey Dave,  Let me know if you need to use my KD tool. A video is expected!

[Dave WM]

little set back. I did some more research and decided I need 13207-81W00 seals not the 13207-2B500. Not sure how I got the 2B500 as a sub, perhaps they would work but may as well get the right OE part. On order from local Nissan dealer.

[JSM]

5 hours ago, Dave WM said:

little set back. I did some more research and decided I need 13207-81W00 seals not the 13207-2B500. Not sure how I got the 2B500 as a sub, perhaps they would work but may as well get the right OE part. On order from local Nissan dealer.

Are the intakes different than the exhaust?

https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-seal-oil-vlv~13207-81w00.html

Looks like 13207M Exhaust vs 13207 intake. Maybe that is just for illustration purposes only.

[Dave WM]

geez I hope not. I got 12 coming all the same.

[S30Driver]

They should be all the same.   You can get the from Orielys -  made by Sealed Power.

[Diseazd]

After you install the new seal, the keepers are much easier to install if you coat them with a liberal amount of wheel bearing grease, a small magnet rod also helps to set them. Most people recommend slamming the top of the valve with a heavy rubber hammer to seat the keepers. This should be the last step after everything is installed, but when you do this, make sure all pistons are lowered in each cylinder that you slam....wouldn’t want to contact valve to piston.

[Dave WM]

20 hours ago, S30Driver said:

They should be all the same.   You can get the from Orielys -  made by Sealed Power.

I ended up buy from deal Nissan OE, but perhaps the same thing as the sealed power ones, I wonder if Nissan just re brands those.

[Dave WM]

6 hours ago, Diseazd said:

After you install the new seal, the keepers are much easier to install if you coat them with a liberal amount of wheel bearing grease, a small magnet rod also helps to set them. Most people recommend slamming the top of the valve with a heavy rubber hammer to seat the keepers. This should be the last step after everything is installed, but when you do this, make sure all pistons are lowered in each cylinder that you slam....wouldn’t want to contact valve to piston.

Will do. I had hoped to do this a bit earlier this year, its going to be no fun in the garage with 90+ heat and 90% humidity we have this time of the year.