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Cleaning the filter on the carbon canister


grannyknot

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  On 6/12/2018 at 4:16 PM, 240260280 said:

So maybe try back flowing warm water by pumping it into the outlet on the top with valve held open by vacuum.

If it has inhaled oil over the years, some soapy water may help remove the coating on the charcoal.

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I know, how about you do that first and let me know how it goes?  I guess there really is no danger in it, nothing in there that will get harmed by water, I might try that. I got the Shopvac on it today and it certainly looks cleaner.

  On 6/12/2018 at 1:58 PM, Captain Obvious said:

Queen wrote a song about this.

Screenshot 2018-06-11 22.30.46.png

 

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I'm in love with my car?

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Oh yeah... And the serious part. Activated charcoal is funky stuff and I'm not sure how it would take to being completely doused with water. What makes it so cool is the amazingly gigantic amount of surface area it has for it's size, and I'm not sure how well it would dry out.

I would shop-vac as much of the crud as you can off the bottom, put a new filter on it, and use it.

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Reading this thread and last few posts I just realized where the faint smell of gasoline is coming from in my engine bay.  If I'm leaning over the fuel filter I can smell it.  I've spent a lot of time checking all of the clamps and hose to rail, and hose to filter, fittings.  But now I realize it's probably just some fumes from my charcoal canister.

The thought popped in to my head as I was about to say what the signs of clogged activated charcoal would be.  It does get full eventually.

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  On 6/13/2018 at 2:51 AM, Zed Head said:

I realize it's probably just some fumes from my charcoal canister.

It does get full eventually.

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If connected and working properly, the system is supposed to store the vapors in the can with the engine off, and then pull them out of the can and burn them when the engine is running. In theory, the carbon canister is supposed to be a temporary holding vessel and you are supposed to empty it ("purge") when you run the engine.

However, I wouldn't be surprised to learn that the emptying process is never 100% complete and it could eventually saturate over the years. I haven't looked into it, but that wouldn't surprise me. Is that what happens?

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When the control valve opens under engine vacuum, the purge line then opens and again engine vacuum is used: it draws engine compartment air through the carbon. This air then draws the trapped gas on the carbon surface into the intake to be burned. The problem is that the engine compartment air is filled with oil vapour, dust, and occasionally insects. All of this will be pulled through the charcoal and eventually coat it.

 

The carbon is a much better container than the 240z way: store it in the block.  FYI New Honda Direct Injection Turbo CRVs now store gas in the block: :bunny:http://www.hondaproblems.com/trends/crv-oil-contamination/

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  • 9 months later...

I know this is an old thread, but I just came across it last night and had some thoughts on it....

Has anyone opened the carbon canister and refurbished it?

Meaning; clean the diaphragm/spring assembly, open the carbon cannister, dump the old carbon, replace with new, fresh, rinsed, activated granulated carbon, replace the filter pad on the bottom and re-seal the whole thing.

Does the canister unscrew?

Or is it sealed shut?

Any advice or comments are appreciated (mostly).

 

 

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I thought I would do just that to mine but could not find an easy way of getting into it without causing some damage,  I didn't have a second one if I screwed up the first so I left it.  If I was going to do it I think I would run a hacksaw blade around the center of the cylinder that is normally covered by the holder, after the replacement of the filter and carbon glue/plastic weld it back together.

Edited by grannyknot
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