Rust Advice 78 280z

[gotham22]

it looks like my valve doesn't have a connector for the wire. 

 

[wheee!]

it looks like my valve doesn't have a connector for the wire. 
 

That is your prop valve. The safety valve is under the MC on the driver side.

[gotham22]

I dont have that valve.  I guess the previous owner removed it?  

[wheee!]

Should look like this without the additional prop valve. 

[siteunseen]

14 hours ago, grannyknot said:

That one of your brake line circuits has a leak and now you are using the other circuit to do all the braking.

If I remember right, the wire under the seat is the one that finally made the light go off so I'll plug the G/Y back and see what happens. Thanks

[gotham22]

I am assuming that it will still work if deleted but not be as safe, correct?  Can anyone help with question 2 and 3 in the previous post

 

[grannyknot]

8 hours ago, gotham22 said:

Can anyone help with question 2 and 3 in the previous post

There are a few connectors in the wiring harnesses that I have seen that don't seem serve a purpose and nothing plugs into them.  I can only assume that it was easier make up the wiring harnesses so they would work in many parts of the world although not all of the wiring was needed in every jurisdiction.

[gotham22]

makes sense, thanks grannyknot

 

[gotham22]

Well,  I was able to start the engine which is a great thing....but now it sounds like this. Where do I start troubleshooting?

[gotham22]

Reading somewhere that this might be an exhaust leak.  Is that possible.  I do have some white smoke

 

 

[ETI4K]

Sounds absolutely mechanical, not exhaust.

I'd check oil pressure first.  Don't rely on the gauge.  Either plumb in a mechanical gauge or pull the valve cover and be sure there's plenty of oil being delivered topside.

Then, do a valve adjustment.

If everything's okay thus far and you still have that knocking, I'd start thing rod bearings.

[Patcon]

I agree, that sounds like a clearance noise. Start with valve lash first

Then record again