That's a donor car piece

Apparently the previous owner only found salt on the drivers side since the passenger side is fine.  Either that or they just aimed a sprinkler on that side!  I took a closer look at it tonight and the rusted part is a thin piece of metal.  Behind it looks to be structural part of the support which seems to be solid.  

Guys, I am working on the refresh of the transmission and have been knee deep in wire brushes and gook!  Ha!  Has anyone used this kit from zcarsource.  Wondering if it is worth buying as a kit instead of sourcing the individual parts

 

https://zcarsource.com/transmission-service-kit-240z-260z-280z-72-78-new

 

 

I haven't bought that kit but have spent thousands of $ with Zcar source and they are a good company, never had any problems with the quality of the parts or the shipping.  I think that is a great price considering what it contains.

Edited May 6, 20195 yr by grannyknot

thanks I appreciate the quick reply.  Going to make the purchase.

I haven't been posting much but I have been working.  Transmission is completely cleaned now and so is half the engine.  You can even see the original blue paint now!  We'll sort of, but I have two cans of the color to repaint with.

Couple of questions:

Is there a good paint or clear that people have used for the transmission.  I got it cleaned but its spotty and doesn't look great.

I started tackling the surface rust in the engine compartment.  Once I am down to bear metal how can I protect it as I am not ready to paint yet.

Does anyone know if someone sells Datsun color 240 in a rattle can?

 

attached is a pick of the battery tray where I was able to get to good metal.  Also, a pick of some of the rust I need to treat on the firewall

I used Rustoleum metallic silver for my transmission. I didn't use any clear though.  If you drive your car, the trans will get dirty again eventually.   If you don't want to paint it, a wire and mag wheel cleaner like AIM or similar will do a pretty good job of cleaning aluminum.   As far as getting color code 240 in a rattle can, just go to an automotive paint store, give them the paint code and year,  have them mix it and put it in a spray can. They can do it in enamel or 2 stage. Should cost about $15 a can. That's how I did my engine bay.  You can also order it custom mixed online if you do a google search  for about the same price.  If you decide to put a clear on the engine bay paint, be sure to match it for the type of paint you choose. It will bubble the paint if you don't.

thanks for the info.  Should I use a primer or something like that now when I am removing the rust since I wont be painting it soon?

3 hours ago, gotham22 said:

thanks for the info.  Should I use a primer or something like that now when I am removing the rust since I wont be painting it soon?

Unless the car is in a relatively dry and not humid shop or garage, the raw metal will need to be protected. Some rattle can primer will help as long as it's not really sitting in the rain getting wet. Rattle can primer won't protect metal from the rain. If it's relatively dry where it's at then a rust treatment/converter will help the metal not flash rust for months.

Making some progress...cleaning up various parts.  July 8th I am bringing the car into a shop to take care of the rust and replace the frame rail, floor panel and floor support.  Will update the thread once the work is completed

Does anyone know if someone sells tension rod mounts?  I think mine are beyond repair.

 

Thanks

They are pretty thick steel. Pics?
You could make them out of steel albeit without the rounded/pressed look. It’s been done.