August 13, 20195 yr Popular Post comment_581824 14 hours ago, Mark Maras said: Saran Wrap. (does anyone use that term anymore?) Only those of us that still use the term "Tin Foil", or I could say "only us old farts". Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-581824 Share on other sites More sharing options...
August 13, 20195 yr Author comment_581844 I am a Saran Wrap and Tin foil guy ? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-581844 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 16, 20205 yr Author comment_592656 Hey, was wondering if anyone had a tip for me. I removed the drivers side outer tie rod but the passenger one is seized. Its lefty loosy on the passenger side right? The drivers side is the one that is the opposite way? I have used heat and PB blaster. Wont budge. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592656 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 16, 20205 yr comment_592659 left side tie rod is the one with left hand threads. Right side is right hand thread. That assumes no one has replaced the left side with a right side inner rod (common since left sides are hard to find), which would make them both right hand thread. Look at the threads and how they lead into the lock nuts. Edited February 16, 20205 yr by zKars Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592659 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 16, 20205 yr comment_592665 I take "rostdelete" , with best results , see the pictures from my 240z 1971. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592665 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 16, 20205 yr comment_592666 one more example Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592666 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 17, 20205 yr comment_592679 5 hours ago, UM240 said: one more example What are we looking at in these pictures? What is the yellow stuff? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592679 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 17, 20205 yr comment_592681 Evapo-Rust in a paste form? Please let us know. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592681 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 17, 20205 yr comment_592698 Hello, yes would call it so , here is a link to the german webside https://www.rostdelete.de/ and a video i beleeve you can find the same in the US Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592698 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 18, 20205 yr comment_592710 From their website (with my additions in red): Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592710 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 18, 20205 yr comment_592719 There is a scooter shop in England that sells it, https://www.scooter-center.com/en/rust-remover-rostdelete-1000g-7676573 but the shipping isn't cheap, haven't been able to find any distributors in NA yet. Citric acid isn't that hard to get a hold of, maybe I'll try some garage chemistry? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592719 Share on other sites More sharing options...
February 18, 20205 yr comment_592724 Honestly I'm not sure any garage chemistry is even warranted. My read on the whole thing is all that stuff is (is) a rust converting acid suspended in a bulky spongy gelatinous base material that slows down evaporation. The preservative is necessary because the citric acid will harbor critters over time and "spoil" (probably smell bad and lose effectiveness). But the point is.... It's a rust converting acid in a gelatinous bulk material to slow evaporation. I believe there are lots and lots and lots of phosphoric acid based materials on the market available at this side of the globe. My (own untested) suspicion is that I bet the phosphoric based stuff would work better, but is less safe to use and potentially worse for the environment. I suspect the citric acid based stuff is uber-safe and all that. From the list of ingredients, it looks like you could eat it. But that doesn't mean it works better, and in fact, most times the worse something is for you and the environment, the better it works. Is there some reason people would believe that citric acid based compound would be more effective? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60184-rust-advice-78-280z/?&page=16#findComment-592724 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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