There's Naval Jelly.  A standard rust remover.  It brushes on.  You could probably make your own home-built paste using vinegar and sawdust.  Cheap.  They're all just moderately strong acids with thickening agents.  

You could use a strong acid like muriatic acid but it would work very fast, create hydrogen gas, and corrode metal after the rust is gone.  Plus burn the crap out of any skin it touches.  Blind you if it gets in your eyes.  It's basically battery acid in a bottle.

the scootershop is in Germany  ...... ?,

my results with rostdelete are better than every other possebility to rmove the rost without dird everywhere in the car ... look at my foors

19 minutes ago, UM240 said:

my results with rostdelete are better than every other possebility

Have you tried the others?  If not, no foundation for your statement.

Sorry for my english,....  yes i did ... but not on this car.  With Sandblasting i got the best results, but it is only an good idea when you strip the car totaly down.

Any kind of rotating tool is a muck and the rust ist still there. I am working ower 35 years with the old metall of cars and bikes and believe me, i tried a lot of different tools to remove the "Rost".

 

 

8 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Is there some reason people would believe that citric acid based compound would be more effective?

I have used phosphoric acid based rust removers and metal preps a lot and although for the most part they do the job well it's the iron phosphate they leave behind that always causes problems for me.  Even when I have washed off the product while it was it wet then washed with detergent, I've even tried to neutralizes it with a baking soda paste and scrubbed into the metal I still end up with white powder bleeding through the paint.

In fact the only success story I can claim with using phosphoric acid is by sanding the metal down until all of the iron phosphate is removed before painting, that works.  So I have done a lot of reading today on citric acid and it seems that after de-rusting with citric acid and washing, the metal is ready for primer immediately. One less step and cheaper?

Considering agricultural grade citric acid is about $2 per pound it's certainly worth a bit of experimenting with xanthan gum and sawdust to see if I can come up with a quick and easy way to deal with rust on vertical surfaces or hard to reach corners.

I'll give it a try and see what happens.

15 hours ago, grannyknot said:

I have used phosphoric acid based rust removers and metal preps a lot and although for the most part they do the job well it's the iron phosphate they leave behind that always causes problems for me.

Gotcha. Shows what I know!  LOL.

So all you need for a proof of concept test is a citric acid based thixotropic paste. I suspect the finer the sawdust, the better, and (again, for proof of concept),  don't know if you need to spring for xanthan gum. That stuff is a lot more expensive than corn starch (which you already have).

Cooked corn starch slurry (cooked to activate the corn starch), with citric acid added. Only thing I'm not sure about is the reaction between the starch and the acid. I spend a fair amount of time in the kitchen, but I'm a little rusty* on which thickening agent to use in which application and I'm not sure if there will be compatibility issues. I do remember there are some restrictions on which starch to use when preparing a citrus fruit based dessert, so I'm assuming those restrictions would apply here.

Could maybe use plain ol' gelatin as a thickener if corn starch isn't compatible? Maybe put in a little propylene or ethylene glycol to slow down evaporation?

 

*See what I did there?

Has anyone used the tie rod boots from zcar depot?  I bought a pair but I can not get them on.  The inner ring is just a little too small to get on the tie rod.  I did everything and couldn't get them on.  I think my rack is original but I cant be certain.  Has anyone had luck with rubber boots from somewhere else?

 

 

 

Making progress on the rack.  Finished painting it and put the new dust covers on.  Of course after I finished painting I scratched it in the middle.  Quick fix though.

 

Maybe this will help someone in the future.  I took the boot and was able to stretch it over the round handle of a chisel. Then i used a heat gun to loosen it up.  It took about 4 attempts like this but I was eventually able to get the boot on.  Its the easy things that that are the hardest...

I think I cut the smallest end off if I remember


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

getting more done.  Next moving on to the wheel hub bearings and rotors

16 minutes ago, gotham22 said:

getting more done.  Next moving on to the wheel hub bearings and rotors

I found a good read on driving the races and bearings off and on. After that it was easy. Torqueing down the castle nut proper was the hardest part.

Looks good!

 

Edited April 14, 20204 yr by siteunseen